Full Version: Polishing help needed
Okay I have stripped the powder coating from an early set of power wing handlebars. What I have now is just raw metal. Aluminum I guess, VERY lightweight, grey looking. Anyway, what are the steps I should follow to get these bars polished up nice? Can someone help?
mothers polish.
I have done may bars and here is the process i go through to acheive a chrome like finish. As with many old used bars there are imperfections that can be fixed. Deep gouges may have to be filled with aluminum through welding. If you can live with the deep gouges you can sand out scratches that are not to deep. When the scratches get deep I consider them gouges,,,anyways. You need to go to the local hardware store or automotiv store and buy wet sandpaper. You will need 400,600,800 and 1000 grit. Wet sand by hand the entire bar with 400 grit in one direction meaning length wise or around the bar as if you were spining the grip around and around. Matters not which direction is first but whatever direction you start, continue that way through the 400 grit. If you see scratches, sand them till they are gone. The 400 grit will produce fine scratches but you will be finished with that grit when the entire bar is all 400 grit scratches. Next move on to 600 grit and change directions removing the 400 grit scratches
and replacing them with 600 scratches. This grit is easier that 400 because 400 grit scratches are fine and easy to remove. When the entire bar is at 600 grit scratches than move onto 800 and last 1000. Remember to change direction each time because this makes the prior grit scratches easier to remove and that translates into time and is less elbow grease. The quality of the finish product is only as good as your desire to remove all the old nicks,dings and scratches with the 400. I have started on largers scratches and mperfections with 250 grit but 250 is only for bad areas and will create work just to remove the scratches form the 250. After all the sanding is finished, do as the above post says. Get some Mothers aluminum metal polish and follow the direction and the container. That is the easy part. If you were to Apply Mothers over old used bars, all the dings and scratches will be highlighted and you may be disappointed with the result. Expect to spend at least one hr on the 400 grit and a bit less on the remaining grits. Now all this I mentioned would be for a top quality show bike application. You can apply Mothers to a section with no sanding and if you are pleased with the results than go with it, depends on what you want. Be patient and look forward to the finish product. Try this, go throught the process which I described and say the left handle grip area and on the right grip area just apply Mothers and see what you like better. Good luck!!!
and replacing them with 600 scratches. This grit is easier that 400 because 400 grit scratches are fine and easy to remove. When the entire bar is at 600 grit scratches than move onto 800 and last 1000. Remember to change direction each time because this makes the prior grit scratches easier to remove and that translates into time and is less elbow grease. The quality of the finish product is only as good as your desire to remove all the old nicks,dings and scratches with the 400. I have started on largers scratches and mperfections with 250 grit but 250 is only for bad areas and will create work just to remove the scratches form the 250. After all the sanding is finished, do as the above post says. Get some Mothers aluminum metal polish and follow the direction and the container. That is the easy part. If you were to Apply Mothers over old used bars, all the dings and scratches will be highlighted and you may be disappointed with the result. Expect to spend at least one hr on the 400 grit and a bit less on the remaining grits. Now all this I mentioned would be for a top quality show bike application. You can apply Mothers to a section with no sanding and if you are pleased with the results than go with it, depends on what you want. Be patient and look forward to the finish product. Try this, go throught the process which I described and say the left handle grip area and on the right grip area just apply Mothers and see what you like better. Good luck!!!
mothers is goooood stuff. Used with a buffing wheel on a power drill....priceless!
I used to love mothers, it still works great, but there is newer higher tech stuff out there now that will do stainless, and chrome all in one, with no abrasives in them.
Try Met-All.....Reasonably priced too...(airlines use it for large surfaces, like the belly of a 747) But I can't give out all my secrets......lol.
I have been working on a set of DX pedals. remiving all the tumbling bumps and all....A true "What have I got myself into project".....
I will give you this one too....use plastic Q-tips cut in half in a dremel going as slow as it will go, for tight places (like the cross bar joints and welds). Just keep replacing them.....at 99 cents for 500, which yields 1000 peices they are quite a bargain......They will snap off sometimes, dont poke your eye out, yada, yada....
Try Met-All.....Reasonably priced too...(airlines use it for large surfaces, like the belly of a 747) But I can't give out all my secrets......lol.
I have been working on a set of DX pedals. remiving all the tumbling bumps and all....A true "What have I got myself into project".....
I will give you this one too....use plastic Q-tips cut in half in a dremel going as slow as it will go, for tight places (like the cross bar joints and welds). Just keep replacing them.....at 99 cents for 500, which yields 1000 peices they are quite a bargain......They will snap off sometimes, dont poke your eye out, yada, yada....
what do you use to apply met-all, would a clean rag be enough?
Caswell has a great forum. Everything you ever wanted to know about DIY polishing, plating, powder coating, etc.
You can use it just like Mothers. Wheels, rags, felt bits, etc...The difference is that you can use it on stainless or chrome and get amazing results on it too.
I've been using the method that Race Inc Dude uses and agree that switching directions helps a bunch. Really helps you see your progress. Avoid mechanical dics sanders and grinding tools if you can--I think it's better to hand sand with a coarser grit paper for really bad stuff, then work progressively up through the grits. Don't skip grits. I've had to start at 80 in some cases for cast marks/ridges. Might be over kill, but I use 1500 and then 2000 before using tripoli and white compound on wheels. I finish up with Mothers and an automotive wax.
Oh, and wear gloves and a mask. Didn't do either today and my snot was black, and my hands still are. I think that stuff causes Alzheimers, but I can't remember...
Oh, and wear gloves and a mask. Didn't do either today and my snot was black, and my hands still are. I think that stuff causes Alzheimers, but I can't remember...
220-320-600 on my air sander then red rouge brick with a 3 inch wool pad. 
I agree Lou, no need to go past 600. Mothers and Met-all go past the rouge though.
I can`t complain about the rouge. I get it for free. Sometimes I`ll use 3M extra cut compound.
You paid free dollars for the rouge! My favorite price!
Rouge is good stuff. Try Metall or mothers both before and after the rouge step and see what you think.....
Rouge is good stuff. Try Metall or mothers both before and after the rouge step and see what you think.....
I also buff out scratches in seats. I wish I had some pics of the red Elina Lightning Bolt seat I did a few months ago. Unreal.
I'm gonna do a couple test patches today: stopping at 600, 1000 and 2000 before buffing with compound and the Mothers. My fingers would really appreciate the savings in time and wear!
BLING BLING!!!!!!
OK, here is the deal, I decided that bench racing is moot, proof is in the pourage, so I found the ickiest thing I could and spent 5 minutes on it.
The first pic. is of one of my tool box tops. I think it is 301 1/2 hard stainless. I got carried away with the torch, and it went off of my marble soldering plate (Old marble trophey bases are very useful! lol), and is covered with burn marks and brazing flux. Incidentally, the burns look similar to the ones left on my Sting forks I was working on at the time.
I swiped my box top with some 400, and then some 600, and then some met-all polish.
5 minutes later, in the same view, you can see my carry tool box, my extension ladder, step ladder, tie down straps, chains, VFR 800 cowling, and my Slat Wall it is all hanging from, and the garage ceiling.
I left some of the burn spot to show it is the same spot!
Thanks guys, I needed another project. Really...Especially something as important as finishing polishing one of my tool box tops. Nice. Reeeaaaaalllly nice! LOL! Maybe getting out the torch would be a better way to put this new found project to bed....? Maybe I will just put it back the way I found it!?
The thing about the afore mentioned polish, is that each time you go over it, it just keeps getting better. My box top was twice over it for about 30 seconds. I usually do about 4 polishes......
[ November 15, 2005, 04:37 PM: Message edited by: Ted Carl ]
The first pic. is of one of my tool box tops. I think it is 301 1/2 hard stainless. I got carried away with the torch, and it went off of my marble soldering plate (Old marble trophey bases are very useful! lol), and is covered with burn marks and brazing flux. Incidentally, the burns look similar to the ones left on my Sting forks I was working on at the time.
I swiped my box top with some 400, and then some 600, and then some met-all polish.
5 minutes later, in the same view, you can see my carry tool box, my extension ladder, step ladder, tie down straps, chains, VFR 800 cowling, and my Slat Wall it is all hanging from, and the garage ceiling.
I left some of the burn spot to show it is the same spot!
Thanks guys, I needed another project. Really...Especially something as important as finishing polishing one of my tool box tops. Nice. Reeeaaaaalllly nice! LOL! Maybe getting out the torch would be a better way to put this new found project to bed....? Maybe I will just put it back the way I found it!?
The thing about the afore mentioned polish, is that each time you go over it, it just keeps getting better. My box top was twice over it for about 30 seconds. I usually do about 4 polishes......
[ November 15, 2005, 04:37 PM: Message edited by: Ted Carl ]
Also...
1. never substitute manual labor when there is a power tool available.
2. The only thing better than a power tool, is a really sharp power tool.
[ November 15, 2005, 11:28 AM: Message edited by: Ted Carl ]
quote:What?!?!?!? 2 of my favorite mantras, and personally coined phrases are:
Avoid mechanical dics sanders and grinding tools if you can--
1. never substitute manual labor when there is a power tool available.
2. The only thing better than a power tool, is a really sharp power tool.
[ November 15, 2005, 11:28 AM: Message edited by: Ted Carl ]
Speaking from ignorance and an overall lack of experience (I know so why post in the first place!) I've been putting a lot of time into this lately, trying to brighten up some mounting brackets for a guy's hot rod, and started off with these: [img]http://store1.yimg.com/I/levineauto_1867_8743014[/img]
Next I went to medium, very fine, then super fine. Probably due to my lack of experience, I ended up leaving scratches and gouges. Part of my problem is that theres few flat areas without obsrtuctions, curves, nooks and crannies, so the discs seems to make things take way longer.
So, for what I was doing, and having no idea how else to do it, I've been sanding/polishing by hand to the point where I've been using the buffing wheel. On the pieces I didn't hit with the die grinder/pad, and went strictly by hand, I had better results.
We actually tried consulting with a couple local abrasives suppliers and they really weren't much help. Should have probably gone to an auto paint place.
My fingers and arm hurt, and I'd really like to try anything different, but with the tight spots on these cast parts, I can't imagine what else I could do.
So, forgive my ignorance. I am looking forward to taking some time to try stopping at 600 grit and hopefully saving time and fingers.
It is fun, though. With each grit progression, I get more into it and time just starts flying by. I've been darn near late to work twice. It's that point where I hit it with the wheel that really hooks me and sticks with me for hours. Kinda like hitting a carpentry project with that first coat of varnish.
Good times.
[ November 16, 2005, 08:01 AM: Message edited by: X-it ]
Next I went to medium, very fine, then super fine. Probably due to my lack of experience, I ended up leaving scratches and gouges. Part of my problem is that theres few flat areas without obsrtuctions, curves, nooks and crannies, so the discs seems to make things take way longer.
So, for what I was doing, and having no idea how else to do it, I've been sanding/polishing by hand to the point where I've been using the buffing wheel. On the pieces I didn't hit with the die grinder/pad, and went strictly by hand, I had better results.
We actually tried consulting with a couple local abrasives suppliers and they really weren't much help. Should have probably gone to an auto paint place.
My fingers and arm hurt, and I'd really like to try anything different, but with the tight spots on these cast parts, I can't imagine what else I could do.
So, forgive my ignorance. I am looking forward to taking some time to try stopping at 600 grit and hopefully saving time and fingers.
It is fun, though. With each grit progression, I get more into it and time just starts flying by. I've been darn near late to work twice. It's that point where I hit it with the wheel that really hooks me and sticks with me for hours. Kinda like hitting a carpentry project with that first coat of varnish.
Good times.
[ November 16, 2005, 08:01 AM: Message edited by: X-it ]
quote:Ah! Sharp tools. I've been using almost the same process for sharpening my chisels. I start at about 80-220 to set the bevel, if it's messed up or the edge is nicked, then work my way up to 2000, then a buffing wheel/rouge.
2. The only thing better than a power tool, is a really sharp power tool.
I cut the sand paper into about 3x11.5 inch strips, the glue them to pieces of glass. I stick the chisel in a jig kinda like this:
then have at it.For touch ups I start at 600 and go on up. Eventually I'll pick up a strop for maintenance.
I love power tools, but really love my chisels. Can't live without either.
Ok I have to retype this....arg.....
X you are on to the 3M roloc discs. But you need to get out of the auto store, and onto 3M's website and spend some time there.
Here are some of what the auto store does not carry: roloc discs in 1/2 inch, and 3/4 inch diameters, Nyloc discs in various grits, 3M deburring wheels in 1 inch diameter, craytex/briteboy mandrels, etc...
Make sure you are using a 90 degree high speed to turn them for control. And my biggest tip, buy a mouse sander/polisher and get creative with pads. Foam, felt, scotchbrite (Green, Red, White, (Talc grade). Does that start the idea juices flowing?
MSC industrial supply co. is an industrual supplier that will sell to the public now if you create an account there. Over half a million items in stock. (and all I want is one of each! lol)
X you are on to the 3M roloc discs. But you need to get out of the auto store, and onto 3M's website and spend some time there.
Here are some of what the auto store does not carry: roloc discs in 1/2 inch, and 3/4 inch diameters, Nyloc discs in various grits, 3M deburring wheels in 1 inch diameter, craytex/briteboy mandrels, etc...
Make sure you are using a 90 degree high speed to turn them for control. And my biggest tip, buy a mouse sander/polisher and get creative with pads. Foam, felt, scotchbrite (Green, Red, White, (Talc grade). Does that start the idea juices flowing?
MSC industrial supply co. is an industrual supplier that will sell to the public now if you create an account there. Over half a million items in stock. (and all I want is one of each! lol)
A board member here put these directions up some time ago -- good stuff:
Polishing Aluminum
By Titian Burris
Materials needed:
Sand paper 80-600 grits (depending on the condition of the metal)
Terry Cloth towels (the softer... the better)
Safety Glasses
Your favorite BBQ apron
Dust mask (unless you like aluminum dust)
A reputable aluminum polish (I use Eagle One,
Dremel Tool or pneumatic hand drill (high rpm) with hard cotton polishing wheels
Palm or Mini-Finishing Sheet sander pneumatic or electric (This is a must)
Time and Patients (As well a must, a must have to get good to excellent results)
Cleaning up the metal, if you are dealing with rough or raw aluminum you will want to follow these sanding steps (I use all of these steps when restoring OSBMX Aluminum, note: not all OSBMX manufacturers products were polished to “high luster†or show standards... Phil Wood Spiders for example were not OEM high luster):
Warning: Do not over sand... aluminum is soft and when using pneumatic or electric sanders, you can thin out tubing etc reducing the structural integrity of the component or possibly “sand through†the tubing /component. Do not sand out factory welds or factory markings, this reduces the historical value of your component.
Sanding Steps:
Using pneumatic or electric sanders can greatly reduce your man hours...
80-120, grit Medium Smoothing of the surface, removing deep imperfections and marks.
150-180 grit, Fine, removing smaller imperfections and marks and leveling out dips in the aluminum.
220-240 grit, Very Fine Sanding
280-320 grit, Extra Fine
360-600 grit, Super Fine Fine sanding of the finish to remove some luster or surface blemishes and scratches.
Once you have put more aluminum shavings up your nose than the guy in “Blow†snorted illegal drugs, follow these procedures:
Take your terry cloth towel collection, cut the towel to fit your Palm or Mini-Finishing Sheet sander like you would a sheet of sandpaper, slather on the Mag & Aluminum Polish and polish away... you might need to do this several times to get a scratch free mirror shine. Use your hand Held Dremal Tool or pneumatic hand drill (high rpm) with the polishing wheel attachment to polish welds and those hard to get to spots (use plenty of polish).
After you have made a huge black mess of everything on you work bench, and you are 110% satisfied with the look of your hard work an time (in other words you could use it to shave with instead of a mirror in the mornings), use a common Silicone Glaze car wax to seal and protect the aluminum, this reduces natural tarnishing. The car wax will work, but I found another product that I have been happy with, Eagle One Billet Aluminum Polish Cleans, polishes and waxes to a mirror-like shine. The choice is yours, they both work great.
Titian’s disclaimer: I have polished allot of aluminum... this is the best way I have found to do it. I am by no means an expert. Do this at your own risk. Like mentioned above, this takes allot of time and patience... these two factors will be crucial in the outcome of your project. Prepare to get dirty! Good Luck!
Polishing Aluminum
By Titian Burris
Materials needed:
Sand paper 80-600 grits (depending on the condition of the metal)
Terry Cloth towels (the softer... the better)
Safety Glasses
Your favorite BBQ apron
Dust mask (unless you like aluminum dust)
A reputable aluminum polish (I use Eagle One,
Dremel Tool or pneumatic hand drill (high rpm) with hard cotton polishing wheels
Palm or Mini-Finishing Sheet sander pneumatic or electric (This is a must)
Time and Patients (As well a must, a must have to get good to excellent results)
Cleaning up the metal, if you are dealing with rough or raw aluminum you will want to follow these sanding steps (I use all of these steps when restoring OSBMX Aluminum, note: not all OSBMX manufacturers products were polished to “high luster†or show standards... Phil Wood Spiders for example were not OEM high luster):
Warning: Do not over sand... aluminum is soft and when using pneumatic or electric sanders, you can thin out tubing etc reducing the structural integrity of the component or possibly “sand through†the tubing /component. Do not sand out factory welds or factory markings, this reduces the historical value of your component.
Sanding Steps:
Using pneumatic or electric sanders can greatly reduce your man hours...
80-120, grit Medium Smoothing of the surface, removing deep imperfections and marks.
150-180 grit, Fine, removing smaller imperfections and marks and leveling out dips in the aluminum.
220-240 grit, Very Fine Sanding
280-320 grit, Extra Fine
360-600 grit, Super Fine Fine sanding of the finish to remove some luster or surface blemishes and scratches.
Once you have put more aluminum shavings up your nose than the guy in “Blow†snorted illegal drugs, follow these procedures:
Take your terry cloth towel collection, cut the towel to fit your Palm or Mini-Finishing Sheet sander like you would a sheet of sandpaper, slather on the Mag & Aluminum Polish and polish away... you might need to do this several times to get a scratch free mirror shine. Use your hand Held Dremal Tool or pneumatic hand drill (high rpm) with the polishing wheel attachment to polish welds and those hard to get to spots (use plenty of polish).
After you have made a huge black mess of everything on you work bench, and you are 110% satisfied with the look of your hard work an time (in other words you could use it to shave with instead of a mirror in the mornings), use a common Silicone Glaze car wax to seal and protect the aluminum, this reduces natural tarnishing. The car wax will work, but I found another product that I have been happy with, Eagle One Billet Aluminum Polish Cleans, polishes and waxes to a mirror-like shine. The choice is yours, they both work great.
Titian’s disclaimer: I have polished allot of aluminum... this is the best way I have found to do it. I am by no means an expert. Do this at your own risk. Like mentioned above, this takes allot of time and patience... these two factors will be crucial in the outcome of your project. Prepare to get dirty! Good Luck!
THANK-YOU SIR!!!
Wow this has been a LOT of extremely helpful info!!! I really like to see the before and after shots like the one of the tool box top. Impressive!!!!
[img]http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?ppppppZXhADpJTqpCTqpppWAmAsPPPPO-[/img]
[img]http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?9999993gslo9u1A9N1A999Nptlc____Z-[/img]
Oh thanks. Now I have to find more places to hide stuff in the garage!
Cool sites. So much stuff that it overwhelms. It all looks cool, but so hard to determine what really fits the bill. Guess one of each is the way to go!
Really want to get back on my project and try stopping at 600. I think I've been using 10 grits and this would cut it down to about half.
[ November 17, 2005, 05:52 AM: Message edited by: X-it ]
[img]http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?9999993gslo9u1A9N1A999Nptlc____Z-[/img]
Oh thanks. Now I have to find more places to hide stuff in the garage!
Cool sites. So much stuff that it overwhelms. It all looks cool, but so hard to determine what really fits the bill. Guess one of each is the way to go!
Really want to get back on my project and try stopping at 600. I think I've been using 10 grits and this would cut it down to about half.
[ November 17, 2005, 05:52 AM: Message edited by: X-it ]
This is what I use. I work with tractor trailers for a living. They are made of aluminun. I polished a few fuel tanks on them. Pain in the ***. They look like chrome when done right. 
I tried stopping at 600, but still had scratches especially where I had to use more agressive grits to take down ridges and mold lines from the casting. It looked pretty good if I hit it with some emery compound on a wheel, followed by tripoli and white jeweler's. I do like Mother's for the final touch. Guessing it's just inexperience in need of more practice. Could be overkill, but went all the way to 2000 before hitting the pieces with the buffing wheels.
Although my finger really hurts, the guy was happy with the results.
Although my finger really hurts, the guy was happy with the results.
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