These are alloy and use a square taper spindle. I must be an idiot because I can't get them to fit right.

I always used one piece cranks BITD and have never used any 3-piecers with this type of spindle. The arms don't want to go all the way down on the spindle. This leaves a gap between the back of the arm and the cone nut/lock nut. Therefore, when I turn the cranks, the bottom bracket immediately loosens. I orginally though well it's just snug and it will go all the way down when I tightend the nut that hold on the arm. But that didn't even get it close and it was nearly impossible to get the arm back off.

It's a pretty large gap. About 3/8" to 1/2". Is there some method to getting the arms on all the way? Or am I missing some kind of spacers that go between the arms and the cone nut/lock nut? I bought 'em off ebay and asked the seller, but he hasn't responded yet. I'm not sure if maybe this spindle isn't for these specific cranks or what.

I thought I'd ask here before taking it into the local shop and looking like a moron.

Thanks guys.

If I'm not mistaken, the arms dont go on all the way to the lock nut. I had the same cranks BITD on a bike and that's how they were then, I think. As far as the loosening problem, the spindle and bearings could be on wrong. I think the spindle actually has a right and left side Basically just flip the bottom bracket to see if the loosening problem goes away. That's bout all I can think of.

I wondered that too, but one side has a very short threaded area witha flange and the other a long threaded area with a groove for the locknut washer, so I'm pretty sure that is right. Both sides are threaded reverse too.

-bump-

Help...please?

Are these the sugino CT cranks,if so i have just fitted a set. The arms are on a taper ,so are not meant to go all the way down.Also,remember that the spindle is short one end and long the other,measure it with a ruler,and make sure you fit the long end to the arm with the chainwheel fitted.
Once you have fitted the arms ,please ensure you fit the washer and locknut on the side without the
chainwheel fitted. The ones i fitted had open bearings, so please ensure they are round the right way.

Sorry, i think were talking about 2 totally diffrent cranks, so i guess im wrong in what i said. Usually the flange would indicate that is where the right hand "fixed cup" locks, onto the flange.

the short threaded side with the flange on your spindle is the drive side, use the cone that threads on and tighten it all the way to the flange,the longer side is set up just like one piece cranks and adjusts the same,cone,keyed washer and locknut,assemble your spindle bearing setup first then install the arms,there will be some space between arms and locknut/cone no spacer required,
also Park makes a tool for removing all square spindle type crank arms its worth buying,check your local shop someone makes a sealed bottom bracket set for square taper arms,large size bb thats super smooth and simple to set up
I just installed a set of these on my sons old school goose this weekend
Good Luck

I got the above mentioned sealed sq. taper BB on my GJS repro, and it's worth every penny. I think it was about 20-30 bucks from Dans Comp, I used it to install some ESP crank arms. Had a few spacing issues and small problems with the used cranks, but got everything dialed in and it's real smooth.

Thanks guys. I was considering the sealed BB, I think I'll do that.