Well my Free Agent limo frame had developed a small squeak in the bottom bracket/cranks area, so I went to remove the profile (euro) bb, and found out very quickly that it was stripped. (of course, I said a few choice words after that since I planned on racing it tomorrow!)

Anyway, the bb is hosed, but does anyone know if there is a way to salvage the frame? The threads in the frame are basically gone now that I've gotten it out, so I guess theres no good way to rethread it with a tap & die, cause the diameter has changed.

Ideas or suggestions? (other than don't strip out the next one!) Guess I need to figure out where to get a new frame, and if I want another free agent (i *love* the frame - its very stiff!)

http://www.freeagentbmx.com/FALimoweb.jpg

Thanks,

- Robbie

Robbie--my kids raced for factory FA for 2 years up until last year. Had the same problem with my daughter's cruiser (unfortunately due to the TM cross-threading the bb cup when originally installed)...talked about many solutions, including retapping the bb, but that really cannot be done. Only solution is, unfortunately, a new frame. I'm assuming you are talking about a 20" limo frame, right? If it's a cruiser frame, please PM me as I have a brand new frame, never assembled.

Hey Robbie,

Sorry to hear you stripped out the BB that sucks.

One of our Pros Randy Roberts did that to his custom Blue Annodized Supercross EVO frame last year when he forced the cups in ont he wrong side. Since it was a custom frame he did not want it to go to waste so he used JB weld on the threads and it worked for him for over 6 months.

I know it is not the ultimate situation to do , but it worked.

Have a great day!!

Bill

Just a thought and maybe NOT a solution....
Sometimes us road bike freaks tap an "English" bottom bracket shell to "Italian" bottom bracket specs and install Italian cups which are slightly larger(and retain the English spindle) to overcome YOUR kinda situation. Other than that....TIG the shell and re-tap (and burn your paint job).

Older pre-TREK Kleins and early Merlins have a proprietary pressed in bottom bracket (without threads) that could sure use a pressed/glued in threaded sleeve to PROVIDE the necessary threads for English threading (to use the newer ISIS/pipe billet type spindles)...anybody out there make such an animal? This would also work for your problem as well.

never had that, but i'm a mantenamce superviser in a box plant and i'm always fixing things like that. i would try some devcon aluminum epoxy not jb sorry ,but that stuff is junk compared to devcon! or maybe us green locktite its sleeve retainer, or you could cut some slots in the bottom like a seat post, and epoxy it in, and put some two piece split collars on each side skueezing it tite. just some thoghts. hope its a help. good luck

depending on how it's stripped, I know such things can be repaired. In fact I think I saw a repair kit for same in a bike tools catalog (around here somewhere).

I'd get w/ your local roadie shop and see what they can do. I don't think your frame is hosed.

Thanks for all the suggestions! I made one last effort today to repair it. I put the spindle through the "good" side to help guide the stripped side, and I used a hammer to tap in the stripped bearing thingy about half way until it stopped, and I guess there were just enough threads left that I was able to screw it back in!

The spacer wasn't quite wide enough (yes I'm using the right one) so when I tighten up the cranks, they spin with some resistance but I can live with that.

And better yet, my squeak is gone! :-) Wow, talk about some luck. I *won't* be removing it again in this frame!

- Robbie

Robbie,

I have seen that problem on several F/A frames not just the Limo. I have also seen the B/B threads cut uneven from drive side to non drive side making it almost impossible to seat the B/B cups to the frame shell. I screwed a B/B out of a Limo and the same thing happened...KHS did warranty the frame. If you have a dealer nerby check with them. They may be able to help.

gvbmxer,

Actually that is exactly what happened -- the b/b cups do not meet flush with the frame on either side. I'll see if they'll swap it out. Thanks for the tip!

- Robbie