(stole this idea from BMXboard)

Okay, write down a tip that you sometimes share with people in Tech and Resto. I'm thinking of those little work-on-bike things you know about that make someone's life easier when they practice them.

Here's mine:
Blue Loctite:
Use it when assembling a crank every time.. Use it on the crank bolts and the chainring bolt. Don't use it on pinch bolts, as it makes 'em harder to get out if you shear one, and if a pinch bolt gets loose it's not all that serious.

Now you leave one.

For restoring Tuffs and Z rims, we've been using Baby Oil. Brings back the color and gives them that 'new car' smell. Suntan oil (not lotion) can be substituted but is more expensive and smells like coconuts.

Good idea Elvis...

When you're setting up your bike (or your kid's or whoever) don't adjust the handlebars while sitting on the seat. You don't race or jump sitting down, do you?
Snug the bars so they don't flop, then lean against a wall with your shoulder. Adjust the bars so they feel comfortable while you're in the standing/pedaling position. You can also lean the back wheel against a car bumper to hold yourself up.
For the little dudes you can hold their rear wheel between your legs while they find their "sweet spot".

if you have painted bars(new school bikes)-- sand away the paint where they are clamped to help keep them from slipping in the neck-- could do the same for the inside of the neck too-- get a pretty good bite

Scott,
You FINALLY give up the secret....doh!

*runs to Eckerd's for baby oil*

Dont eat yellow snow.

Sorry could not resist.

I run a bit of sand paper around rims to let the brakes get a better grip. does not make the rims any better looking, but it does aid the stopping power.

ORB

I scuff up the handlebar under the grip area w/ 100 grit.

If you change gears frequently, keep a set of chain tugs adjusted for each gear combo. When you switch gears, switch adjusters too. It'll save time and the hassle of messing w/ chain tension at the track.

Build up resto frame and fork before
getting it refinished to help identify any faults that need correcting - before its to late

Buy an expensive grill because Cheap ones ****!! Oh yeah Metallica Rules

Never play leapfrog with a unicorn.

Use the correct size wrench for the job.

Spray Windex on your sidewalls to help the tire seat on the rim properly.

Don't take any wooden nickles.

Lightly grease all stem bolt threads, the stem shaft, the pedal threads, the seat post, the threads on the seat post clamp and the threads on the axles before assembling. Your bike will assemble easier AND nothing will rust into place (like the stem caught in fork and seat post in frame probs we've all had).

Boone

Microwave your hard Grab On grips for 7 seconds on high and they will slide right on.

Oh yeah, dont wipe with poison ivy

Hair drier for removing decals you want to save.

Swimming pool acid for those hard to reach rust spots in the corners. On chrome frames of course. Be careful of stickers and use gloves! It is acid!!! Rince with water then wax. BE CAREFUL!!!!

This has been a debated subject but it always works for me:
When putting on grips I use one shot of hair spray on the bars and the grips slide right on and dry super fast.
Brian
P.S. Don't talk with your mouth full.

i use either hair spray or spray paint-- but paint can be messy if yoou are not acrefull---

dont stare at a solar eclipse

Baby powder inside of your tires, helps to prevent flats. Run your bars parallel with your forks! Too far back, frame too long; too far forward, frame too short. Dont ride with a loose headset. I have plenty more. Blah, blah, blah,

Jesse D

becareful with hairspray when putting grips on as in don`t get it on frame as it will damage paint work as i know from doing it

compressed air for the grips works best,especially if you sweat alot like I do! Blue loctite is okay but it will gall the threads after reinstalling try using touch up paint instead as it sticks well when dry but break the bolt loose and the paint flakes away. Use lock not when tightening two different metals together instead of grease so they don't galvenize together(aluminum cranks and chromo spindle) keep the ends of your allen keys as fresh as possible use a hacksaw to trim them down instead of a grinder as the grinder heats them up too much and makes them weaker! use proper axle washers and save your drop outs! learn to tighten threadless systems properly! and be nice to your bike mechanics, we are not trying to rip you off by getting you to replace parts we are just looking out for your safety concerns!

To remove that stubborn seat post from your frame:

Try this....
Get hold of the following:
Dry ice (lasts longer and is not messy)
A good spray penetrating oil
And a full kettle of boilig water
Rag
Parrot pliers.

You may need to put the frame into a bench vice.

First, spray plenty of penetrating oil around the seat post, allow it to soak in, leave for a day or two, then wrap a rag around the post and put a pair of parrot pliers around the rag to avoid galling, and twist.
If that does not work, shove the dry ice into the seat post..fill as much as you can,leave for about 5 minutes, then go and boil that kettle.
Pour the boiling water over the frame seat tube, as you may have guessed the seat post will shrink and the frame will expand.
Using the rag and the parrot pliers..twist..you may get lucky!!

WD40 is great for installing BMX grips. I swear by the stuff. Tri-Flow works just as well!

when using dry ice, remember to do so in an open area; it produces carbon dioxide and you could suffocate w/o proper venting....

safety glasses are always a wise investment (eyes don't grow back)

Helmets are good and have been known to prevent chronic drooling and mumbling. Don't go over the bars without one

Decal adhesive removal, after you have peeled as much as you can.. Use WD-40 to get the rest off. Some use finger nail polish, but with todays finish's, unsure if will damage the finish. (clear coating)

When your done working on your bike, a few coffee grounds and some dishwashing soap will clean your grimy hands. Really!

A tip in removing freewheels - always do it with the axle still in place, and use the axle nut threaded back on top of the freewheel remover to stabilize it. Leave the nut loose about one turn to allow the F/W to unscrew when it breaks loose. Only use the nut to break the F/W loose, and then take the nut off to allow the freewheel to be completely unscrewed. Put the tool facing up in a vise and use the wheel for leverage to break the F/W loose.

Bill Nicholson

Screwdrivers don't work so good for changing tubes and tires.

I got this tip from the Mighty BMXA years ago.

Stick a ten-speed handlebar plug up the fork tube. It will help to keep water out.

Don't check chain tension while riding bike, at least not while pedaling!!!

For the old school rides, put a 10 speed bar plug on the ends of your bars before installing your grips, it'll slow down if not prevent the bars from poking through your grips.

Following on the theme of the last post. Too keep your bar ends from punching thru your grips, stuff a quarter $.25 into each grip before installing them on your bars.

Only cost you $.50 and will make your grips last a lot longer.

Rich

I believe a nickle fits better.

Use a spoke nipple for a cable end...
Ziplocks and a sharpie for keeping track of bearings, brake parts etc when breaking down a bike...


I used to swear by the WD-40 trick, but for grips that are not going to be replaced for years, it breaks the rubber down from the inside out. I had to replace a pair of grips that were more like goo (5 years had passed) than rubber. Just a tip for the long term restos.

For grips, an nickel is a must to protect ends, and 3 or 4 real hot and steamy breathes blown into them and install real quick they dry within an hour tops and theres never any residue or greezesss - for removal, with care insert flathead and ordinary tap water pour'd in...

Inner tubes install by first wettin' them up w/soapy water...when they inflate they'll evenly settle - NO WOBBLE

And old inner tubes never just toss, cut them into pieces, larger ones for maitence reasons - folded up as shock aborbsion for banging with hammers, so to cause as little damage as possible.... and smaller pieces too cut up into different size washers...for like, make a washer for between the stem and lock nut of your headset it adds abit of absorbsion and lessens the wear from the 2 metals rubbing (saves your investments and adds less wear incase, of resale value) and place one as wheel washer against your frame - believe me she won't slip and you'll add extra protect for your prize

And finally always put the seat down after usage...
these simple rules will keep all the HONEYs' in your life HAPPY, you can't lose

[ September 19, 2003, 06:01 PM: Message edited by: Dr. Frankenripper ]

To make your new grips no-slip get out mom's aquanet,hairspray, to you children, and spray the ends of the bars, not to much. They will stick in five min.

I use a coaster brake arm to break tires down off of rims. works fantastic, saves the tubes and won't gouge the rim.

Twist on wire connectors for brake cable ends. Quick and easy to install, even on frayed ends and they come in a variety of colors.

Non Slip Grips i use windex glass cleaner spray it in the end of the grip slip it on and let it dry for a day or 2 it will never move, to remove the grips insert i flat blade screw driver sprat in more windex and then turn the screw driver and they will slip right off.

Better Breaking- i use simple green, clean your rims and the break pads it dries quick then you will have better breaking power rather then scratching up your rims with sandpaper.

Sticker glue removal- use goof off found in the home depot or lowes it is the best thing for sticker removal by far.

1 last thing.
HE WHO PICKS HIS NOSE BEFORE IT'S TIME DOES NOT GET ANYTHING......HAHAHA!!!!

Ahhhh...

Someone beat me to the HairSpary idea on the Grips...

• Before mounting new brake pads, rough them up on grainy cement...

• Don't mess with your ACS Boa Brake or ACS Pro Rotors to see how the bearing work....else you will be chasing a bunch of little balls all over the place...

• Don't sell your old rides because you need the money - rob a Bank or somethig first!

Stephen
RL-20II Guy

Don't force it just get a bigger hammer!
and NEVER pee in a fan that is blowing in your direction!

for rust an old trick I use is tin foil and water...take a small piece of foil and fold it up into about an inch to an inch and a half dip it in the water and rub it on the rust works pretty decent.

have a decal that is starting to peel?? use a drop of clear nail polish on the spot that is peeling.

another way is to use 3M trim and emblem adhesive

Spit in the grips never fails.

If you are building a show bike(not to ride) and want to protect the frame/forks buy clear adhesive chainstay protector/decal. I cut them up and place them on the inside and outside of the dropouts ,on the brake bridge even on the inside of the stem so not to scratch the bars or stem. It's not noticable and durable.

An even better and quicker way to install grips.

Use "zippo" lighter fluid. Make sure the grips and bars are CLEAN. Run a little lighter fluid in the grip and on the bars. Work quickly, once the lighter fluid dries (evaporates) in about 15-30 seconds, the grips aren't going to move. Yes from install to ride in less then a minute.

The only way that has a "faster time to ride" is using compressed air, which not everyone has everywhere.


Leave the break lever "just tight enough" so that it will move if you hit it. If you wreck (and if you never wreck, you're not trying hard enough) the lever will move instead of break/bend.


Tighten Chain Ring bolts in a "Star pattern". As well, tighten the stem bolts by "cross-tightening"

Here is my tip for "winston tire stop on the dime brake performance".Flip your bike over . Clean your rim brake surfaces with acetone or brake cleaner .Air dry them. Spin you wheel and spray a lite coating of hair spray Aqua net super hold works perfect on the surface.Treat all rim surfaces. Then let air dry again .Time to ride now. Aaah skidding at the touch of a finger.Works killer for G-turn performance during the apex whip before you release.Works good also on mag wheels .

Another.Ever have grip removal problems.New grips at that.Figured that a razor blade is the ultimatium.Just use a flat blade screw driver to lift a 1/4 inch in of grip up and place a skinny air compressor nozzle and blast away while twisting.The pressure will literally remove grips that are glued on.

There is my tips L8R

to prevent washer marks on show bikes... cut rubber washers out of an old tube. use a hole punch for the center hole. slip over axles, tighten down nuts, ta da!

Apply frame decals the same way they do window tint. Wet the surface with clean, midly soapy water. When you place the decal, you can slide it around to get the perfect placement. Take a sponge or small roller (plastic squigee will scratch) and smooth it out. You'll have perfectly placed, bubble free decals.

Grip removal.

Boil kettle , stick the bar end of the grip in the boiling water for about 30 seconds , pull off grip !

It's hot so wear rubber gloves , preferably pink ones

lots of tips on grip removal, try this:

get one of your diabetic friends (everyone knows a diabetic) to give you some of their UNUSED syringes. fill with warm water. insert into grip till it wont go no more, usually when the needle hits the bar itself. squeeze in the warm water. work it around and pull. wala!

cut the valve stem off your old tubes and slice them open on the inside seam. insert new tube inside old one. insert into tire. instant tire liner. and, since the rubber stretches, the extra weight is distributed evenly!

--mike.

Here is some more tips for you..


1) for bb cups, head cups, or bb alum bearing shells.Instead of hammering on your high end king head set bb or what ever but, do not have a cadillac cup presser use your old mans vice.Place a 2x 4 on the interior of the vise both sides one cup at a time and start to close the vise.It will press in smoothly and you will be able to monitor it as it fits in.

2) adjusting brake pad toe in toe out or just setting them up on your calipers.Get a small adjustable wrench or cresent wrench.Close up the wrench until it is snug as a bug.Then move left or right depending on which way the pads are touching the rims for proper toe in.A business card or credit card fitted in the back of the trailing end of the pad sets the perfect toe in.Works on the front or rear.

3) can I keep them coming OK

4)here is another "seat post" manifestation problems.Busted the post off at the neck. Easy money here if all the other techniques fail.Get a drill size of the inside of your seat tube and drill.Aluminum will come out like butter.Chrome moly lots harder.You will need patients like a zen master .Go too fast and burn the bit, harden the material.Then your really SOL unless you have a mill

5) Ever have a bolt that cannot be replaced and do not have a tap and die set to clean the threads and a nut of the same size will not do it.In the middle of the night.Have no fear.Get a nut that fits properly only before you put it on. Put the nut in a vise and crush it lightly so it is semi oval and threads on with a wrench and wrench away.If the threads are gummed up it will clean it .If the threads are gone in the beginning.Replacement is the only alternative.

6)Stripped allen bolts E.G. internally flush :neck, seat post clamp,just use a hack saw and saw away take time but it works.If that does not work go to a machnist and have them wire EDM it out.Has to be a high end machine shop though probably have to call around for a EDM machine in house

7) Bolts or nuts that are frozen on.Use this method only if your frame is not painted.Get a propane torch heat the nut bolt whatever and melt hot wax on it until it disappears into the area you are working on. make sure that the nut bolt etc is facing up.Should help.If not other methods will be needed

Hope something here works for you