Is it possible without killing oneself to get a rattle can paint job to shine? I applied my paint and several coats of clear and I am not satisfied with the gloss. Is there a way to get the "wet" look without starting over or spending 2 months hand rubbing?
Thank you
Full Version: Rattle can paint, shiny?
tsmith, it is do able. Basically, you apply the paint as a controlled "run" to get the wet look. I found that temperture has a lot to do with it and for me that was around 70 degrees....you want the paint to be able to flow out before it has a chance to set. You're just on the verge of a run or sag. Rattlecan paint has come a long ways but it does chip much easier than automotive type finishes. I used duplicolor on this 3bar Monark BMX conversion without wet sanding, polishing or buffing.
Okay 76, give it up. Let's see the rest of it.
You need to wetsand and polish after everything is dry and cured. That's the best way to get the wet look without the controlled run. I painted a 125R frame with a rattle can a few months ago and it looked perfect. Just take your time, keep the sandpaper and paint wet with water (with a little dish soap mixed in) and sand lightly letting the paper do the work. Start with a very fine paper, then slowly get finer and finer. Once everything is smooth hit the paint with a soft cloth and polish and rub until it shines.
Go to a Pro paint shop and get a black 32 oz. bottle of 3M micro fine polishing glaze, or foam pad glaze.
Get foam pad
very very light amount over a broad area.
Rub still it starts squeaking.
When it starts squeaking, rub a whole lot more because it wasn't working until it started squeaking.
Squeak squeak squeak squeak squeak away.
Get foam pad
very very light amount over a broad area.
Rub still it starts squeaking.
When it starts squeaking, rub a whole lot more because it wasn't working until it started squeaking.
Squeak squeak squeak squeak squeak away.
i'm a fan of Duplicolor general purpose enamel clear coat. it seems to dry slower than most, so you can avoid the overspray effect that you get at one end while you're spraying the other. it smooths itself out before it sets.
i do it in one very lightly applied, constantly moving coat til the can is empty (not several coats with drying time in between).
i've fooled a few people with that stuff and i don't need to sand anything.
like mentioned above, not as durable as something professional, but looks great.
i do it in one very lightly applied, constantly moving coat til the can is empty (not several coats with drying time in between).
i've fooled a few people with that stuff and i don't need to sand anything.
like mentioned above, not as durable as something professional, but looks great.
QUOTE (76 Mongeese @ Feb 9 2010, 10:09 PM) 
You know your stuff.
That would win a show award.
QUOTE (mr coasterbrake @ Feb 9 2010, 10:28 PM)
i'm a fan of Duplicolor general purpose enamel clear coat. it seems to dry slower than most, so you can avoid the overspray effect that you get at one end while you're spraying the other. it smooths itself out before it sets.
i do it in one very lightly applied, constantly moving coat til the can is empty (not several coats with drying time in between).
i've fooled a few people with that stuff and i don't need to sand anything.
like mentioned above, not as durable as something professional, but looks great.
i do it in one very lightly applied, constantly moving coat til the can is empty (not several coats with drying time in between).
i've fooled a few people with that stuff and i don't need to sand anything.
like mentioned above, not as durable as something professional, but looks great.
Krylon is some worthless crap. It's own substrate is enough to act as a removal agent for the previous coat. Crap!
Duplicolor is one of the better one's out there. There used to be plasticoat. That was some great stuff.
I've heard about House of Color rattlecan. Expensive, not much in the can, but the stuff seems to work so says the rat rod bikes community.
Temperature, humidity and stupidity all are major factors in using the evil black art of the rattlecan.
I gave the Duplicolor clear a shot today, went on differently than other products, very fine mist. Seemed shiny as I left, can't wait til tomorrow to see the results.
Thank you
Thank you
TSmith, keep us posted. This is very interesting.
If/when I do it again I will start out with the Duplicolor clear, it seems to be head and shoulders above the other brand I used first. Unfortunately I think my damage was done by time I got the info. I am tempted to blast everything and start from scratch. My paint job looks significantly crappier than the ones posted here, mine appears too thick and dull,almost flat, even though I used gloss paint and clear. I will post pics tomorrow when I am at work after a 24 hour dry time of the final coat of clear....
Thank you for the advice.....
Thank you for the advice.....
BTW, I haven't used too much clear in the past, but any time I have, it always seemed to make the paint way duller.
My white rat tracker has clear on it and before it did, it shined.
My white rat tracker has clear on it and before it did, it shined.
I assumed clear was needed to protect the color as it is so easy to scuff.....
It's still easy to chip.
Your best bet with paint in terms of durability is an epoxy enamel.
Basically, it's fun, but if you are really serious about the build, paint is not the way to go.
Urethanes don't chip much either, but they scuff and are very hard to sand blast back off as it is a really soft paint and the media kinda bounces off.
Your best bet with paint in terms of durability is an epoxy enamel.
Basically, it's fun, but if you are really serious about the build, paint is not the way to go.
Urethanes don't chip much either, but they scuff and are very hard to sand blast back off as it is a really soft paint and the media kinda bounces off.
Finished parts, I am satisfied, not overjoyed...
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