I have always rode coaster brake and still do to this day. Back in the 80s I always had problems with the coaster brake arm getting stripped out from tricks like the pedal picker, rollback 540s, basically any trick that has you applying the coaster brake while going backwards. So now I have these new reproduction tuff wheels and they come with a coaster brake if you want one. Trouble is, this hub is really cheap, and the arm stripped out after ONE trick!

I had some ideas about how to make it better, like maybe have a new arm made out of stronger thicker steel and have the hole fit tighter. But I was also wondering if anyone on here has any expertise on coaster brakes? Isn't there someone on here who's username is Mr. Coasterbrake? I would love to hear from anybody who has any knowledge on this subject!

Thanks!

Wes

you can switch out the cheap guts on those newer tuffs with shimano "E"-type guts. those are much better parts to begin with, but also have a splined arm interface, rather than the typical shape that strips.

short of that, just replacing the arm with a "D"-type shimano or a suntour arm will be an improvement. those stock arms are butter.

Cool! I don't remember ever seeing a splined coaster brake arm, but that sounds like it would work great! Where might I find those parts? Are they readily availible? LBS be able to get it?

Thanks!!!

Double up on that Shimano suggestion. Those hubs work pretty well and are available. I *think* you can swap them into a Peregrine 48 shell if you want a 48. They make have them at your local shop or just check "shimano coaster brake" on eBay. I just bought a batch of 6 myself.

Just checked Ebay, is that the seller who is selling 6 for $89, or one for $16?

Yup, same guy - redtail10148.

I never had problems with the arms, but the drums inside would always go bad on me, and I'd have to replace them every year or so. I never did anything special -- just kept replacing drums. It got so bad one time, that my sprocket would slip before it engaged to pedal forward. I went over the handlebars once when it did that, and I'm lucky I still have all my teeth.

I've always had my Suntour arms welded to the piece it is supposed to be attached to and tensioned by a single nut.
Once I started doing that, I've never had a problem.
Be sure to remove the parts from the hub and have them welded off of the axle.
RobQ

I remember one of the first issues of Freestylin, had a how to article about welding the arm to the brake cone. It worked pretty weel for a while but eventually the weld broke. The weld was probably not good.

I just got the Shimano E type hub and it looks pretty nice.