What do you use on the top half to hold the lock ring into place because the top nut after screwed down doesnt even come close to the lock ring, there is like a 1" gap (threaded area), I got an old school 85 GT Pro Performer. Your help is appreciated.

Is there anything to hold that little lockring into place?? Thanks

Whoa, that is messed up. The top nut should fit down right on top of the lock ring. HOWEVER - I know where you are coming from, but am concerned that the gap is about 1", which seems to be a bit much. Last summer, when I built my Dyno, I had the same problem, but my gap was much smaller, more like 1/4". To remedy that, any bike shop worth its salt should have a spacer ring for you- but if you seriously have a 1 inch gap in there, something is wrong. This problem seems to plague GTs for some reason. My Redline worked perfect with the Beartrap II, yet my other GT I'm working on, 87 Performer, there is no way that it would, as the fork's steerer tube is too long. I wrote a question about this a couple of weeks back.

Thanks, are people cutting their forks??? I dont see any other option but to cut it or add a spacer ring like you said, Also I just measured it and it is only really right at 1/2", plus I have a gyro so hopefully someone here will have hit this speed bump and tell me what they did.......

Dude, I don't know. I don't even know who/where to do such things, or why that would be necessary (cutting the forks down) I guess the steerer tube is long to work with the gyro? See, I have my 87 Pro Performer here as well, but it's all complete, mine since new, never had it's headset taken apart, and it looks like that the tube is long as well, but with the Gyro and Epoch headset, everything works. On my 87 Dyno and now my 87 Performer, I am having the same issue as you. My 86 Redline though, no problem, everything fit. What irritates me is that I want to build my 87 performer as an 86, i.e. without the gyro, and I don't know how to make it fit either.

??

a) install a gyro... the tabs mounted under the upper cup should make the gap a little tighter.

b ) fill up the gap with a few washers.

c) break out the hack saw.

Pauly, No Gyro = sexy. I know what you're saying though. As far as the Homer method of hack sawin', how hard is it to saw through cromoly? Seems like it would be brutal.

dumb question, but are both the frame and forks from an 85 gt pro?

can you get pics and post them of how you have everything set-up?

on an 85 GT, gyros werent out yet, the f/f should have no problem fitting together with the headset you have. there should be NO space at all

and to answer the hacking through cr-mo..... its not any harder than any other steel and a good blade will cut fine, but usually end up crooked.... bike shops have fork cutting guides (kinda like a mitre box)

are you sure thats not a 5" (schwinn) fork steerer tube

Maybe dude's isn't an 85?

I know on my '87s, the fork steerer tube is long, to incorporate the Gyro.

If you cut the fork, make sure to thread the bearing race onto the fork first. Removing it after the cut will help fix whatever minor damage you do to the threads with the hacksaw.

But Brian's right, you probably shouldn't have to cut unless your forks and frame don't match.

Just had the same problem on my 85 Goose...only about an 1/16" but that top bolt should tighten all the way down to the spacer...I wonder if the new Tioga headsets are a little different than they were bitd ?

What fork are you using? It sounds like you have a mismatch. Yes, some pics would help.

Can you tighten the top adjusting cone all the way down? If not, you may have to cut the fork down and get a good shop to thread the top of the fork if you don't have enough threads left.

Check the race that is on the fork itself. If there was already an existing one there, maybe change it and use the one that came with the new Beartrap headset. I might be the one that is one there now is a flatter, smaller depth one, or also worn.......just enough to give you that issue.