Full Version: Who here is the SPRAY PAINT MASTER?
Wondering of those who spray paint alot and have mastered it if you could give me some tips. Besides prepping very good, primer and shooting the color is there anything else you can to to really get the paint to stick and last??. Can you bake it in the over for a few minutes? If so what temp. Just looking from any of you for help so I can do it right the first time.
QUOTE
Wondering of those who spray paint alot and have mastered it if you could give me some tips. Besides prepping very good, primer and shooting the color is there anything else you can to to really get the paint to stick and last??. Can you bake it in the over for a few minutes? If so what temp. Just looking from any of you for help so I can do it right the first time.
ive painted several bikes with spray paint.
the best results ive found is do 2 coats of primer and let each coat dry 100% before applying the other.
then when its ready for color...do at LEAST 3 coats...again letting each coat dry before applying the next.
after that, i always did 2 or 3 coats of super high gloss clear.
keep in mind that it IS spray paint, so it WILL still chip if the bikes are getting ridden....if its for a carpet queen, it should be fine.
watch for runs.
this is my old GT i repainted with good ol Krylon
True Blue to Teal Green.
I've seen a lot of spray bomb jobs around town.
Don't take any of the parts off, and spray it extra generously in one shot so none of the original finish shows through. Cruising around will make it dry faster. Good luck.
Don't take any of the parts off, and spray it extra generously in one shot so none of the original finish shows through. Cruising around will make it dry faster. Good luck.
^^^^Right over the decals too right????
I'd powder if at all possible (and the man to go to is Chip at C4), but if you must use paint, the best guy to use IMHO is Lou. His work is just fantastic - he has just painted 5 88 RL20II's for me, and each one came out better than the last. He is slow, which he openly admits to, so if you are not in a mega rush, he is the man you need to be speaking to.
His latest job - a kiwi 88, was just fantastic.
His latest job - a kiwi 88, was just fantastic.
Step #1. Clean the part to be painted, and then clean it again, and then clean it one more time. 
In all seriousness, clean the daylights out of it, use acetone or prep-sol and wipe out all the grease and finger oils that get left in the corners and welds. If you don't have it spotless and grease free then it will lift in those areas later. I blow it dry with compressed air to get rid of any lint, but if you don't have access to a compressor you can pick up tack cloths for cheap at paint supply stores.
I primer with a couple of coats then I let the part sit for a few days. The primer will dry and shrink, and that will reveal any bad spots that need more primer or attention. If it looks good and doesn't need any more primer I'll scuff it with scotchbrite pads and blow it off again, wipe it down with prep-sol one last time, blow it dry and then paint.
The best way I've found to get the paint to flow good and stick is to shoot light coats, and let them get tacky in between coats. If you wait too long you get "dry" paint, which looks like paint over fuzz, and if you don't wait long enough you'll get too much wet paint built up and it will sag and run.
After I get the paint looking the way I want I set it somewhere out of the way so it won't get bumped or dirty, and if possible I set it upright so that if anything does sag or run it less likely to be on top where it will be harder to fix. I've never tried drying paint in the oven...the thought of my wife kicking my butt because I burned down the house is not appealing to me!
In all seriousness, clean the daylights out of it, use acetone or prep-sol and wipe out all the grease and finger oils that get left in the corners and welds. If you don't have it spotless and grease free then it will lift in those areas later. I blow it dry with compressed air to get rid of any lint, but if you don't have access to a compressor you can pick up tack cloths for cheap at paint supply stores.
I primer with a couple of coats then I let the part sit for a few days. The primer will dry and shrink, and that will reveal any bad spots that need more primer or attention. If it looks good and doesn't need any more primer I'll scuff it with scotchbrite pads and blow it off again, wipe it down with prep-sol one last time, blow it dry and then paint.
The best way I've found to get the paint to flow good and stick is to shoot light coats, and let them get tacky in between coats. If you wait too long you get "dry" paint, which looks like paint over fuzz, and if you don't wait long enough you'll get too much wet paint built up and it will sag and run.
After I get the paint looking the way I want I set it somewhere out of the way so it won't get bumped or dirty, and if possible I set it upright so that if anything does sag or run it less likely to be on top where it will be harder to fix. I've never tried drying paint in the oven...the thought of my wife kicking my butt because I burned down the house is not appealing to me!
QUOTE (Axlepeg @ Jun 14 2009, 10:28 PM) 
I've seen a lot of spray bomb jobs around town.
Don't take any of the parts off, and spray it extra generously in one shot so none of the original finish shows through. Cruising around will make it dry faster. Good luck.
Don't take any of the parts off, and spray it extra generously in one shot so none of the original finish shows through. Cruising around will make it dry faster. Good luck.
In the neighborhood around my office, we call that the new jack hustler mod, they paint the bike black from top to bottom, so that when the drug dealers run deliveries they can dump the bike in the bushes and come back for it later, those darn kids 8)
QUOTE (bmxerpete @ Jun 15 2009, 08:54 AM)
Step #1. Clean the part to be painted, and then clean it again, and then clean it one more time.
In all seriousness, clean the daylights out of it, use acetone or prep-sol and wipe out all the grease and finger oils that get left in the corners and welds. If you don't have it spotless and grease free then it will lift in those areas later. I blow it dry with compressed air to get rid of any lint, but if you don't have access to a compressor you can pick up tack cloths for cheap at paint supply stores.
I primer with a couple of coats then I let the part sit for a few days. The primer will dry and shrink, and that will reveal any bad spots that need more primer or attention. If it looks good and doesn't need any more primer I'll scuff it with scotchbrite pads and blow it off again, wipe it down with prep-sol one last time, blow it dry and then paint.
The best way I've found to get the paint to flow good and stick is to shoot light coats, and let them get tacky in between coats. If you wait too long you get "dry" paint, which looks like paint over fuzz, and if you don't wait long enough you'll get too much wet paint built up and it will sag and run.
After I get the paint looking the way I want I set it somewhere out of the way so it won't get bumped or dirty, and if possible I set it upright so that if anything does sag or run it less likely to be on top where it will be harder to fix. I've never tried drying paint in the oven...the thought of my wife kicking my butt because I burned down the house is not appealing to me!
In all seriousness, clean the daylights out of it, use acetone or prep-sol and wipe out all the grease and finger oils that get left in the corners and welds. If you don't have it spotless and grease free then it will lift in those areas later. I blow it dry with compressed air to get rid of any lint, but if you don't have access to a compressor you can pick up tack cloths for cheap at paint supply stores.
I primer with a couple of coats then I let the part sit for a few days. The primer will dry and shrink, and that will reveal any bad spots that need more primer or attention. If it looks good and doesn't need any more primer I'll scuff it with scotchbrite pads and blow it off again, wipe it down with prep-sol one last time, blow it dry and then paint.
The best way I've found to get the paint to flow good and stick is to shoot light coats, and let them get tacky in between coats. If you wait too long you get "dry" paint, which looks like paint over fuzz, and if you don't wait long enough you'll get too much wet paint built up and it will sag and run.
After I get the paint looking the way I want I set it somewhere out of the way so it won't get bumped or dirty, and if possible I set it upright so that if anything does sag or run it less likely to be on top where it will be harder to fix. I've never tried drying paint in the oven...the thought of my wife kicking my butt because I burned down the house is not appealing to me!
Thanks
QUOTE (Jay Huber @ Jun 15 2009, 12:12 PM)
In the neighborhood around my office, we call that the new jack hustler mod, they paint the bike black from top to bottom, so that when the drug dealers run deliveries they can dump the bike in the bushes and come back for it later, those darn kids 8)
I saw a kid on one of those yesterday, I thought "hmmm...spraypainted spokes, nuts, bolts...naaahhh it isn't hot" lol.
Dude! What size oven are you planning on shoving that bike in? LOL. That reminds me of the Seinfeld "Calzone" episode with Kramer at the Italian joint, in his wet clothes...
"That's a big oven."
Check the resto section... some dude a while back posted the how-to. Spray bombing can be sano or lame, depending upon how you do it. If you're doing it on a budget, maybe check around for a local powder coater or auto body shop. Remember, basic colors will be cheaper and still look great.. but if you're looking for a specialty color match, ala GT day-glo or blue, or Haro neon green, your best bet is Chip.
"That's a big oven."
Check the resto section... some dude a while back posted the how-to. Spray bombing can be sano or lame, depending upon how you do it. If you're doing it on a budget, maybe check around for a local powder coater or auto body shop. Remember, basic colors will be cheaper and still look great.. but if you're looking for a specialty color match, ala GT day-glo or blue, or Haro neon green, your best bet is Chip.
+1 on Lou for Spray. Day-glo's and Candy.He can match most anything.
the best results i have got from spray paint is the dupli-color engine enamels....
they lay down smooth, and when fully cured after 7 days its quite durable...
they lay down smooth, and when fully cured after 7 days its quite durable...
there was also an online article in ride last month regarding the magnanamous spray bomb
Some inspiration from Mr Bauer at Odyssey BMX:
Spray paint vid!
Also check his helmet in this bike check of the painted bike:
Bike Check
Spray paint vid!
Also check his helmet in this bike check of the painted bike:
Bike Check
Some of Lou's work
Where are you located? I have a friend near Chicago that does Powder Coating on the side out of his garage. Very nice work at a very good price. Hit me up if interested.
QUOTE (JDH @ Jun 16 2009, 06:44 PM)
Where are you located? I have a friend near Chicago that does Powder Coating on the side out of his garage. Very nice work at a very good price. Hit me up if interested.
That would be great, but Im on The East coast round Va Beach, Va Thanks everyone
Don't forget RESTORATION NATION bmxresto@yahoo.com I did these 4 helmets for Team Haro for the BMX Worlds in Germany.
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.