hi all!! i about to anodize my hubs and pedals.. but my anodize factory wont accept it because.. my hub and pedals have steel cone (cone for ball bearing) inside those parts... they claim this will cause the cone melt and will damage my parts due to cone are made from metal or stainless steel.. so they cannot do anodize on metal or stainless steel..
1. are this right? metal or stainless steel cannot do anodize process bcause this will make those melt an damage?
2. if this true.. how i gonna anodize my hub and pedal ? how i gonna "remove" those cone with super nice without damage its and put it back after anodize process... the romove cone process will damage the cone and my parts too.....
thank in advance.. i really need help here...
regards~
Full Version: Anodize Big Problem (Please Help!)
it's true - nothing steel can be present.
sometimes the races can be removed and reinstalled with no damage, sometimes not.
sometimes the races can be removed and reinstalled with no damage, sometimes not.
this all depends on how authentic you are building.
but an anodized pigment of powdercoat will give you the same effect as anodizing, especially if you prep the metal with a soft effect.
and other than a sharp eye, will have no clue the difference.
but an anodized pigment of powdercoat will give you the same effect as anodizing, especially if you prep the metal with a soft effect.
and other than a sharp eye, will have no clue the difference.
it is possible, but very expensive.
ive had parts done with steel intact.
They must fully coat the steel with a special paint coating
most people wont do it though
ive had parts done with steel intact.
They must fully coat the steel with a special paint coating
most people wont do it though
Anodizing process only works on aluminum. And bath that the parts are given will corrode any metals other than Al.
And also, being an alloy, the content of aluminum can vary causing color variations even when parts are anodized together in the same tank by themselves.
For example this was all prepped by me (mirror polished) and taken to a local anodizer (twin city plating) here in Minneapolis. The parts were done in their own tank, by themselves. As you can see the lever bodies came back greatly different than the rest. Even the 2 bodies themselves didn't match eachother.
So I RE-STRIPPED them. Anodizing is a much bigger PITA to strip compared to paint! I re-polished them and sent em to C4 and he coated them with translucent blue...
As you can see, its not exactly like anodizing but the look is pretty close. A bit darker and "glossier" but that might be lesser if the parts were a bit less polished or maybe a bit of a brushed look added after polishing and prior to powdercoating?
And also, being an alloy, the content of aluminum can vary causing color variations even when parts are anodized together in the same tank by themselves.
For example this was all prepped by me (mirror polished) and taken to a local anodizer (twin city plating) here in Minneapolis. The parts were done in their own tank, by themselves. As you can see the lever bodies came back greatly different than the rest. Even the 2 bodies themselves didn't match eachother.
So I RE-STRIPPED them. Anodizing is a much bigger PITA to strip compared to paint! I re-polished them and sent em to C4 and he coated them with translucent blue...
As you can see, its not exactly like anodizing but the look is pretty close. A bit darker and "glossier" but that might be lesser if the parts were a bit less polished or maybe a bit of a brushed look added after polishing and prior to powdercoating?
QUOTE (mr coasterbrake @ Dec 12 2008, 05:59 PM) 
it's true - nothing steel can be present.
sometimes the races can be removed and reinstalled with no damage, sometimes not.
sometimes the races can be removed and reinstalled with no damage, sometimes not.
i only have few of them... i wont be able to get something like those again... so i wont damage them.. but after my question been answered... now i can powder coated all my lovely parts.. thanks
QUOTE (BridgeCity @ Dec 12 2008, 06:10 PM)
this all depends on how authentic you are building.
but an anodized pigment of powdercoat will give you the same effect as anodizing, especially if you prep the metal with a soft effect.
and other than a sharp eye, will have no clue the difference.
but an anodized pigment of powdercoat will give you the same effect as anodizing, especially if you prep the metal with a soft effect.
and other than a sharp eye, will have no clue the difference.
thank again for given me idea and option how to solve my problem.. the powder coated is the best solution for now.. i thinking to paint it.. but powder is the best than paint.. it wont easly flick out...
thank a million...
QUOTE (waza007 @ Dec 15 2008, 11:02 PM)
it is possible, but very expensive.
ive had parts done with steel intact.
They must fully coat the steel with a special paint coating
most people wont do it though
ive had parts done with steel intact.
They must fully coat the steel with a special paint coating
most people wont do it though
you right! most people wont accept to do it... me and my friend believe there is way they (the workshop) solve this problem.. i believe they not get the same part everyday to anodize... so if they talking to me... which been thinking to anodize a pair of hubs... they better do other big project then anodize my parts...
how much i can paid for pair of hubs to be anodize?
the best short and easy answer it.. "cannot do it!"...again thank wazaa007...
i maybe powder coated my parts if i think that necessary.QUOTE (shawn o @ Dec 16 2008, 03:39 AM)
Anodizing process only works on aluminum. And bath that the parts are given will corrode any metals other than Al.
And also, being an alloy, the content of aluminum can vary causing color variations even when parts are anodized together in the same tank by themselves.
For example this was all prepped by me (mirror polished) and taken to a local anodizer (twin city plating) here in Minneapolis. The parts were done in their own tank, by themselves. As you can see the lever bodies came back greatly different than the rest. Even the 2 bodies themselves didn't match eachother.
So I RE-STRIPPED them. Anodizing is a much bigger PITA to strip compared to paint! I re-polished them and sent em to C4 and he coated them with translucent blue...
As you can see, its not exactly like anodizing but the look is pretty close. A bit darker and "glossier" but that might be lesser if the parts were a bit less polished or maybe a bit of a brushed look added after polishing and prior to powdercoating?
And also, being an alloy, the content of aluminum can vary causing color variations even when parts are anodized together in the same tank by themselves.
For example this was all prepped by me (mirror polished) and taken to a local anodizer (twin city plating) here in Minneapolis. The parts were done in their own tank, by themselves. As you can see the lever bodies came back greatly different than the rest. Even the 2 bodies themselves didn't match eachother.
So I RE-STRIPPED them. Anodizing is a much bigger PITA to strip compared to paint! I re-polished them and sent em to C4 and he coated them with translucent blue...
As you can see, its not exactly like anodizing but the look is pretty close. A bit darker and "glossier" but that might be lesser if the parts were a bit less polished or maybe a bit of a brushed look added after polishing and prior to powdercoating?
thank for super clear explanation... so now i thinking to powder coated all my parts...your DC lever shown very nice color after powder coated them.. i much like the powder coated result..can really tell the difference...
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