A good pair of threaded 1 inch head tube forks with 990's? I know hoffman had the super forks, anyone else make anything? Thanks..

I'm pretty Standard Bykes made threaded 990 forks. If I remember correctly they're heavy.

You mean forks that also used a 1" clamp-on stem like the SuperForks?

Maybe Haro did, or Kore or S&M...

GT made some for a standard (old) stem with a quill (I've seen Earlsstuf selling them on eBay). Dyno did, too; I've got some I found on a Dyno Zone...

Yeah, I'm talking about the regular forks that take a quill stem. You know I was thinking I had some back in my GT days, but I don't know what the heck I did with them.

I'm trying to avoid the extra heavy front end syndrome, so I don't want to use the superfork or the standard forks.

I got my old DB put together with a set of new school pegs and 60 seconds into my riding, I snapped the front axle. I couldn't believe it. Anyhow, I will keep checking around.

If anyone knows of someone selling a pair, please let me know. Thanks.

Use your 24K Trick Star forks Woody... Um, no don't use those.

I might have something, are you looking for threaded peg holes on the bottom also? (answer to broken hub axles)
DMC designed a threaded fork just before this tan Mongoose/K2 bike and fork era, that had 990's and lower peg bosses behind the axle.

I'll see if I can dig that one up.

Thanks Richard, please keep me posted. I can't believe I jacked two axles in one day...

The only ones I remember off the top of my head are the Dyno forks. Those might not be too heavy.

Woody,
I have a pair of 1" threaded chrome Dynos with 990 mounts, 3/8 axle..had them on my rider..give me a call if you want them, they're yours...
Jay

Yeah, what Jay said, 'cept mine are painted black.

I wouldn't rule out Hoffman Superforks because they're too heavy. Thick dropouts and 990 mounts aside, I'd bet they're lighter than the old style because you're saving weight on the stembolt and the quill of the stem, right? I suppose you could say you don't even need the compression nut, if you're into saving weight.

Kinda irrelevant, but still a bit on the topic: All those guys obsessed with shaving weight off their bikes; do they remove their compression bolt from their stems after they tighten the stem to the fork? I would think it's rather unnecessary after you tighten it and then fully clamp the stem on, no? I mean, like, the headset would essentially be locked by the stem...

I tried for quite some time to find a threaded 1" fork with 990 mounts. No luck at all. I asked SE if they were ever going to make one since I really like Landing Gear and they said they are going to make a batch of 1" threaded forks again but they aren't doing them with 990 mounts though. That sucks. I never found any older "quill stem" forks anywhere with 990 mounts that weren't also built like a tank. I gave up and just used an old Landing Gear fork with a floppy side pull Dia Compe FS880 brake. The brake locks up perfect even though it has a bit of flex. Really wish I could use 990s though. If anyone ever finds one that isn't made by Dyno, GT, Standard or Hoffman please speak up. It's going on a flatland bike. I don't need street forks. My bike is heavy enough as it is.

Yep... it works fine without that bolt...I drilled a big hole in mine so I can take it off or put it on without unbolting the front brake cable.. This also works for cranks that have pinchbolts -running them without the spindle bolts..

Hey Jay, I will give you a ring tomorrow. Here is my situation. I built up a new school S&M to go ride the local skateparks in, but it wasn't all that fun to ride flatland on. To be honest, I missed the platforms. I figured why work harder when my old bikes were designed to make riding easier. So I built up one of my old DB strike zones. 10 seconds on this bike and I rode better than the current bike I was one. What can I say, I'm an old school rider with a riding style more suited to the bikes I designed, rather than the bikes of today. After all, riding for me these days is about having fun and I missed riding flat. Especially with all the posts I've been seeing of guys riding flatland. So I got this bike together, but the front brakes stink compared to 990's. Second because of the fork design, I had to modify the pegs a bit to fit and the end result had me brake two front axles in less than 15 minutes.... So I figure since I want 990's, I might as well get a fork more suited for larger pegs.

Dang Woody, thats one sweet bike. I am planning on going to Etnies this Sunday, hope you can make it.

Xavier

Sweet bike, I see your using them proto-type cranks...

Woody,

Great to see you still had one of the DB's around. It looks great!

Now you just need to break out the old DB uniform! Ha. C'mon. Get the wife to take one pic of you in full uniform doing a pedal picker or something for old times sake.

Jeff

Instead of sourcing out forks, why not just install a 990 brake plate?

I thought about the brake plate idea, I even thought about going down to S&M and having them weld some 990's on my regular forks. Problem is the drop outs on the forks are too small for the pegs of today. I had to cut down the pegs to get them to fit on my axles and clear the fork blades, but when the front axle broke, it bent the drop out. I straightened it up fairly easy, but when I put another front wheel with a good axle on it, it started to bend within 5 minutes, just doing hang 5's, which tells me I need to change out the fork. The design was built to work with the pegs mounted on the forks, not on the axles. I was planning on riding this weekend, but that's going to have to wait until I can get some other forks. I wish I had saved a pair of the first gen Hutch FS forks without the pegs, then I could just weld 990 mounts to them and be done with it..... Anyhow, it just makes me want to ride that much more.

try finding a pair of Kore zero offset forks then weld the 990 mounts on them...theyre not heavy, big thick dropouts..1" threaded.

you can usually find some on evilbay.

Didn't the 99 GT's have quill stem 1" forks with 990 mounts? I've got one in storage, I'll check it out tomorrow. Not sure what kind of "new school" peg clearance the dropouts have.

98-99 performer, not sure if the rest of the GT line was similiar in this time frame

990 brake plates aren't much better than using a regular side pull because it hooks to the fork the same way the side pull caliper does, with a single skinny bolt. Using a brake plate only gives you 990 brakes that flex like crazy. Not really worth the effort. Welded mounts is the way to go. I should find some one to weld some on mine.

Hey Jay, those would be them. Go figure I worked at GT for over 9 years and at the end of it I gave almost all my GT stuff away. I seem to have a pattern with that. I think my buddy Jay has a set of them for me. Hope to get my bike up and running this week. Thanks for all the help guys. Woody.

Woody, Why not just go with some Nippons or something up front? I know you know how to DIAL in brakes after all these years.

I have used both and I had great results with the brake plate. The bolt was a little oversized, so I had to drill out the fork but it worked all right. And I am not as small as I once was.

Woody, all this work is because you didn't feel comfortable on the S&M frame. Are the angles and dimensions of the old frames that different from the new frames?

This may have already been suggested, but my friend Tony still rides a Redline RL-20 (I think), and he has a 1" threadless fork with 990 mounts and a Redline 1" threadless stem. The frame has the frame standers on the rear. Check out his bike here: http://arkbmx.tripod.com/id107.htm

I just couldn't imagine having to go back to threaded headsets and quill stems.

Jason

My bad, after reading Tony's bike check I realized he does run a brake plate. But the times I've rode his bike I've never noticed the front brake flexing. It grabs as good as mine, and I run Odyssey flatland 990 forks.

Jason

I really like my S&M for riding in parks and ramps and I can ride flat on it as well, but it has a 20.5 top tube and I'm not quite as limber as I use to be. I can do a lot of my old tricks on it, but some stuff is a bit sketchy for me. I like a lot of the old school tricks and doing them on an old school flatland bike is just that much easier for me. I would rather spend what little time I have to ride having fun, rather than trying to relearn tricks on my S&M. I agree the technology of today is far superior to what was used back then, no doubt, but everything today is pretty much built with 14MM rear slots and I still run a 3/8 coaster brake. I hate adding on all that extra stuff just so my wheel fits the drop out. In the end I guess I would just rather ride a bike I designed, rather than a bike someone else designed, at least for flatland.

Basic Bikes from Canada also made threaded 1" with 990 posts, which were basically the Standard forks, except Standard placed the studs lower on the fork with a different braking system than 990's. Basic only sold about 200 of those forks that came from Standard's old builder in Davenport, then starting getting them made in Vancouver, Canada, and sold them in 1" threaded and 1 1/8" threadless. I have some pics if you like. Basic also was the first to offer 990 fork/brake combo's, as far as I know.
Thanks

Cant you just put new 1 1/8'' forks (with mounts) in a 1'' headtube?I heard of people doin that