Full Version: 07 looptail headset question
Any input on this matter would be greatly appreciated!
I have a 07 PK RIPPER looptail frame and 08 Landing gear forks. Will the Chris King No ThreadSet 1-1/8", or any threadless 1-1/8" headset, be the correct type of headset for this particular frame and fork? I was in a forum and someone mentioned not to use an integrated or internal headset. I know in the product info for the PK Ripper bike on the SE website uses a press fit integrated... i'm confused??
Also, would anyone happen to know what a drive wedge compression bolt is used for? I believe it reinforces the steerer tube to prevent pinching from over-tightened stems but is it something that is necessary to have since the landing gear forks are threadless?
And what diameter seat post would fit a 07 looptail ripper?
Thank you very much in advance for your time guys!
You need a 27.2 mm seat post.
The PK Ripper Looptail uses a standard 1 1/8" threadless headset. Not integrated. Not internal. Press in cups. Read this:
http://www.danscomp.com/serve.php?serve=pr...eadsetchart.htm
Any of the headsets on this page will work:
http://www.danscomp.com/products.php?cat=P...EADSETSSTANDARD
(Not that I am promoting Dan's per say, this is just an easy reference page.)
Without a doubt, Chris King makes the nicest headsets but they are super expensive. Personally, I always used FSA and never had any problems with them. Cane Creek comes as a stock headset on many brands of complete bikes.
The drive bolt is a compression device. It pulls the stem down to tighten the headset. It replaces the star nut that comes with headsets. Often the star nut doesn't bite into the cromoly steerer tube and it slides inside the fork. When this happens, your headset will come loose. The Drive bolt sticks through the bottom of the fork and can not slip. It doesn't keep the stem from crushing the steerer tube.
Actually, you don't even have to clamp the stem that tightly to hold everything in place. The clamp on system works about a million times better than the old school quilled stem. You should never crush a steerer tube. Also, once you have adjusted your headset to proper tightness and clamped the stem onto the fork, you don't even need the compression device.
Sorry about the extended lecture. Hope it helps.
The PK Ripper Looptail uses a standard 1 1/8" threadless headset. Not integrated. Not internal. Press in cups. Read this:
http://www.danscomp.com/serve.php?serve=pr...eadsetchart.htm
Any of the headsets on this page will work:
http://www.danscomp.com/products.php?cat=P...EADSETSSTANDARD
(Not that I am promoting Dan's per say, this is just an easy reference page.)
Without a doubt, Chris King makes the nicest headsets but they are super expensive. Personally, I always used FSA and never had any problems with them. Cane Creek comes as a stock headset on many brands of complete bikes.
The drive bolt is a compression device. It pulls the stem down to tighten the headset. It replaces the star nut that comes with headsets. Often the star nut doesn't bite into the cromoly steerer tube and it slides inside the fork. When this happens, your headset will come loose. The Drive bolt sticks through the bottom of the fork and can not slip. It doesn't keep the stem from crushing the steerer tube.
Actually, you don't even have to clamp the stem that tightly to hold everything in place. The clamp on system works about a million times better than the old school quilled stem. You should never crush a steerer tube. Also, once you have adjusted your headset to proper tightness and clamped the stem onto the fork, you don't even need the compression device.
Sorry about the extended lecture. Hope it helps.
QUOTE (pwh4130 @ Jun 24 2008, 04:54 AM) 
You need a 27.2 mm seat post.
The PK Ripper Looptail uses a standard 1 1/8" threadless headset. Not integrated. Not internal. Press in cups. Read this:
http://www.danscomp.com/serve.php?serve=pr...eadsetchart.htm
Any of the headsets on this page will work:
http://www.danscomp.com/products.php?cat=P...EADSETSSTANDARD
(Not that I am promoting Dan's per say, this is just an easy reference page.)
Without a doubt, Chris King makes the nicest headsets but they are super expensive. Personally, I always used FSA and never had any problems with them. Cane Creek comes as a stock headset on many brands of complete bikes.
The drive bolt is a compression device. It pulls the stem down to tighten the headset. It replaces the star nut that comes with headsets. Often the star nut doesn't bite into the cromoly steerer tube and it slides inside the fork. When this happens, your headset will come loose. The Drive bolt sticks through the bottom of the fork and can not slip. It doesn't keep the stem from crushing the steerer tube.
Actually, you don't even have to clamp the stem that tightly to hold everything in place. The clamp on system works about a million times better than the old school quilled stem. You should never crush a steerer tube. Also, once you have adjusted your headset to proper tightness and clamped the stem onto the fork, you don't even need the compression device.
Sorry about the extended lecture. Hope it helps.
The PK Ripper Looptail uses a standard 1 1/8" threadless headset. Not integrated. Not internal. Press in cups. Read this:
http://www.danscomp.com/serve.php?serve=pr...eadsetchart.htm
Any of the headsets on this page will work:
http://www.danscomp.com/products.php?cat=P...EADSETSSTANDARD
(Not that I am promoting Dan's per say, this is just an easy reference page.)
Without a doubt, Chris King makes the nicest headsets but they are super expensive. Personally, I always used FSA and never had any problems with them. Cane Creek comes as a stock headset on many brands of complete bikes.
The drive bolt is a compression device. It pulls the stem down to tighten the headset. It replaces the star nut that comes with headsets. Often the star nut doesn't bite into the cromoly steerer tube and it slides inside the fork. When this happens, your headset will come loose. The Drive bolt sticks through the bottom of the fork and can not slip. It doesn't keep the stem from crushing the steerer tube.
Actually, you don't even have to clamp the stem that tightly to hold everything in place. The clamp on system works about a million times better than the old school quilled stem. You should never crush a steerer tube. Also, once you have adjusted your headset to proper tightness and clamped the stem onto the fork, you don't even need the compression device.
Sorry about the extended lecture. Hope it helps.
Thanks for the info, I appreciate it! I actually just talked to a rep from Dan's Comp and he told me I needed the drive compression bolt in order to attach the forks to a headset and stem. None of the other sites that sell landing gear forks ever mentioned needing this part. It was Dan's site that brought this to my attention. What you are telling me is what I believe, that you do not need the drive wedge compression bolt.
Thanks again for the response.
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