Ok heres my ? I want to make an old MB into a bmx bike. A'm i going to have to swap the spokes on the rear rim so that the freewheel will line up with the front sproket and put the axel on backwards.
tHIS IS SO THE CHAIN WILL BE strait.

up should be able to get that conversion kit if it is a free hub.

http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profil...ategory_ID=5132

if it id treaded, re-dish the wheel and just throw on a freewheel. i don't think you will have to replace the spokes.

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Yea i don't want to put new spokes on i was just wondering if i should just change them from left to right the drive side are shorter then the left side the kit you show me is cool but i already have a 18 tooth freewheel.Just don't want to spend to much $$$$$$$$$$$

if it is a production wheel, "machine built", i doubt you will have problems with different spoke lengths. even 2 to 3 mm should give you enough play to dish the wheel to center.

Ok but remember the frame is wider on the drive side so im not going to have much to play with and im going to use the stock axel that came with the bike. I'll let u know tomorro once i play with the back rim.

with the wide frame spacing, redishing the wheel to line up a single speed freewheel will result in a "reverse" over-dished wheel (ie: not strong).

this is the best picture i can find.

http://www.bikecult.com/works/archive/03bi...s/vdsCRBZdo.jpg

your hub (if it is a treaded mtn bike hub) should have spacers on the drive side to allow for a 6-7(did they make a 8?) speed freewheel. which will result in having crazy dish on the wheel. drive side in, non-drive side out. we used to install 2 of these spacers, one on each side, then even out the spoke tension to try and get the straightest drive line as possible. should not be to hard. i have done a few this way, seems pretty easy.

this is the easiest way without re dishing the wheel. put the spacers on the drive side and leave the wheel the way it is. it just makes for a weaker axle.

http://cachefly.oreilly.com/make/wp_bike.pdf

check page 6 of this pdf. i had done one like this for a guy in austin who was on the bigger side of 190lbs and he kept bending the axle. it works though.

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Koenning Thanks i looked at the pic and did it worked just fine.

PM'd you on your stem trade....

word.

Not going to be as cheep as i thought now i have to buy a half link because the chain now is 2 long (mtb frame no ajustment) i know there not expencive but i just don't want to drive around the Island looking to find a bike shop selling them.

Just go ahead & get yourself a chain tensioner (look up Surly Singulator).
I did the same thing w/ my old MTB. W/ 36/16 gearing half-link was too tight, w/out too loose.
Switched to 37/16 gearing & half-link too loose, w/out: too tight.
-Bill

I'm going to try a diferent gear to i put a 42/16 and wow. going to try a 42/18 or 39/18 but i definetly need a chain tenshioner.