This goes out to anyone who has had a frame rechromed out there. I just got a nice seatclamp for my freshly rechromed S&M cruiser, and it doesn't fit. The seatpost doesn't fit either, but I figure I can clean up the inside with some sandpaper on a drill or something, but what to do with the outside? Am I going to have to grind up the new chrome to get it to fit? Any tips?


Doug

two tips \


1: Never use that person to chrome anything again




2: buy a Dremmel

Sorry to hear that - all that money, time and excitment all for a small disappoinment. Wait until you try to get the bearing cups in! Be careful and make sure you take enough off that it doe not chip!

Can you not just flare the clamp slightly to fit??
Also with the seat post I would lightly remove material from the post rather than the frame, same for bearing cups, etc.
Good luck!

Well, the headset cups went in ok, but I haven't tried BB cups yet. I tried to flare the clamp a little, and put a blemish on it (purple VG double clamp). I'll probably just have to dremel it. Crap.


Doug

I forget what the tool is called, but to flare it you can use a reverse plier to open it up. I'll see what mine is called tomorrow and post it

Doug....as stated above....I would definitely consider taking some material off the BB cups unless you plan to use some rare ultra-high dollar BB set. If it's just a cheap BB, then take a few thousanths off the diameter of the cups.

Tell you the truth, you should send the F&F to me and i'll figure it out for ya.


Old-skull

I was able to clean up the inside of the seat tube, and I took some material out of the seat clamp and got it to fit. Here is my progress so far:




Not much, but it's a start.


Doug

The tool ringer is refering to is a battery post spreader cleaner..that would work well...a little grease on the items mentioned is always a plus too..

curious who did the chroming on that?
nice bike by the way.

I've used this for stubborn seat post clamps before. It's an excellent tool.
Lock Ring Pliers

when plating a part the bottom of the tank plates faster than the top. the buss bars are at the bottom of the tank that are used to rob the plating (copper/nickle/chrome/cadmium) from. so there is an electrode across the top of the tank that they hang the parts from with wire/rack. then run electricity to.
the charge to the frame in the solution will draw the chrome from the buss bar to the frame. if you don't move/rotate the frame every few minutes it will plate thicker on the side toward the bottom of the tank.
i would say they ran a wire/hook through your bottom bracket making the seat tube toward the bottom of the tank giving you thicker plating where your seat post clamp goes.

it's pretty cool seeing something plated. when they turn on the current the part starts to bubble/foam.
it does not take long to plate a part depending on the size.