just picked these up and wondered if they are the real deal as ive never seen any before.

Looks like someone used a marker to write Phil Wood on there.

Yeah those look like them with the marker written on them. How do you plan on removing the freewheel???

freewheel removal? visegrips baby!

hahaha vice grips. Thats funny bro. Hey if anyone is interested, I have a nos front phil hub. It needs to be converted to bmx by Philwood as it is a wheelchair hub now. It has been sitting in it's original philwood box collecting dust for over 25 years. Let me know if anyone needs one.

Dan

hahaha vice grips. Thats funny bro. Hey if anyone is interested, I have a nos front phil hub. It needs to be converted to bmx by Philwood as it is a wheelchair hub now. It has been sitting in it's original philwood box collecting dust for over 25 years. Let me know if anyone needs one.

Dan

I've got them off before w/o damage to the hub. Wrap around the flange with old inner tube and use a vise grip chain wrench, got mine from harbor Frieght. Then mount the f/w tool in a vise and use the wrench to turn the hub. 1st gen Phils I'd say you scored depending on what you gave for them.

[ November 19, 2006, 06:33 PM: Message edited by: cheez ]

I had a set of Phil's BITD and the freewheel was left on after the spokes were removed. The bike shop tried to remove the free wheel and the hub split into two pieces.... thats hurt. I still have the axel if anyone needs one.

The best way to remove the freewheel is to re-lace a rim to the hub with as many spokes as possible. Then remove the freewheel like normal. I would avoid any kind of pliers, vice grips, vice, etc...

To remove free wheel you need a tool called sometimes called a strap wrench. It is a handle with a strong strap (leather, nylon, kevlar) that you wrap around what you want to remove amd rotate. As you lever the handle in the direction of travel it tightens around the part like a noose.

In this case I would wrap the strap around the spoke flange side of the freewheel. Put a freewheel tool in a vise, put the freewheel in the tool, apply the strap wrench, rotate in direction of removal and it will come off, no damage at all.

Any good plumbing tool supply will have one (they also will have the related tool the chain wrench, that would work but it will toast the part)

ok cheers guys so there 1st gen then ?

Another option is to disassemble the freewheel (balls and all) and take a vise grip to the remaining piece that is threaded onto the hub.

Relaceing the hub to a wheel is another option, but not always so easy.

Yes, they appear to be 1st gen Phil Wood BMX hubs which were manufactured until about 1980-81. Contact Phil Wood directly if you want to have them serviced.

I'm still struggling with this bullseye.



The problem with the strap route is that as the rear hub on the drive side does not have a a flange at the barrell to grip.

If anyone has any other ideas or tips please let me know.

Thanks

Paul

I love the color combo of those yellow bulls man. Look great on a yellow mach one.

Frostie... Damn, that's a shame. Those are really cool. I'd buy a GT just to go around 'em!

This year, I found some Campy Records with the same deal going. My friend at the LBS wrapped the flanges in a thick towel and then set 'em in his vice, and then went after the freewheel with a wrench wrapped in a breaker bar (about three feet long).

Took five seconds, and the towel kept the flanges from getting all scratched. Wonder how sturdy those Bullseye flanges are?

That is the problem, the 3 piece design means that you can only really use the drive side flange and if you look at the pic it is only the narrow part where the spokes go through that you can clamp!!

I do have a GT waiting for these to be built up too - very frustrating, but it may be a lesson learnt for me, I took the chance on getting the cluster off when buying.I is doubly bad as whoever cut it out of a wheel left spoke lengths in the holes, so I can't even attempt to relace that side!

hey just my 2 cent but take off the cluster and bearing and sht, then maybe say use an angle grider on it, make sure it heat the cluster a little bit, and hopefully the eaxpansion, and compression will break the tight seal, i no this semi worked fr me in a sense, with one hub, slightly ifferent but i believe the principal migh work.

any ideas how I get the cluster off?

Those Bulseye's belong on a torker.

Brad send one over and I'll take care of it

With either of these hubs I would notdisassemble the freewheels or attempt to remove the freewheels by holding any part of the hub with tools...this will focus too much load in a concentrated area risk damage. If you disassemble the freewheel and it still doesn't work, you are S.O.L. This is the only way I would do it:

Lace the hub up to a rim w/ as many spokes as possible. You might have to make some custom spokes without heads for the drive side. You can fabricate some spokes w/ an "S" shape for the drive-side to allow them to be inserted into the drive flange, yet still allow enough spoke tension to allow the hub to be built. Then remove the freewheel like normal. Removing the freewheel in this manner reassures you will distribute load throughout the hub and reduce risk of damaging or separating the flange from the hub body. It will take some work; how badly do you want to save your hubs?

On three piece hubs it is more difficult to remove the freewheel. The flanges are typically threaded onto the center (phil wood) or bonded or pressed. Lacing the opposite side and trying to remove may result in breaking the loctite and unthreading the flange. If you know someone who is creative try making a tool that fits into the spoke holes like a multi pin spanner wrench. The problem with the strap wrench is that some of the three piece hubs have fairly thin centers and you could damage them in the process. good luck!

I have had several hubs where the spokes were cut out and the freewheel left on. I take an air impact, the correct socket apply it to the freewheel tool and spin it right off. I have never had to put it in a vice.

well here they are after some work !!



due to a change of plans though they are not needed so are up for grabs.

why are these people pulling wheels apart with freewheel on? seen this before myself. I would guess you would have to wrap the hub in a towel or something and put in a vice where it does not slip, but the teeth of vice may tear through towel.

now on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/vintage-old-school-b...1QQcmdZViewItem

I do hope that the phil logo is still there!

With an impact gun, I have been able to remove freewheels just holding the hub in my hand. If it's really stuck, I've cut slots in them (not all the way through) and carefully split them with a chissle.
-Chip