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how to remove broken seat post, HELP ...
Mr. Smith
post Jan 9 2012, 04:48 AM
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Thank you. I for one know this is probably the best site for help.
Many years ago I read on thread in which either Ted Carl or Bill Curtain did a complete thread on ...

How to remove a seat post when it is broken off inside the seat mast.

If anyone has the link or some input ...

I beg you please help ...

I looked in this section using keywords search and this program wasn't working properly.
I know I found it in the past several times.

Thank you in advance.

Rob
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Master Jim
post Jan 9 2012, 11:08 AM
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I soak it with PB blaster for ever and then use a bearing puller.

Like for a transmission pilot bearing, it has small OD teeth that expand (to catch the bottom of the post and a slide hammer to do the pulling. If the post is in there deep, this may not be an option, but on freestyle frames, it is typically right near the top and snapped off flush witht the top of the frame...

How brutal you want to get depends very much on the frame in question of course.

Heat can work; however an inverted can of keyboard cleaning 'air' will release some VERY cold liquid. Applied to the inside of the seat post (on a hot summer day) can do wonders as well.

Another technique that can work (if the post is sticking above the frame) is to grab the seat post and collapse/roll it inside itself. This can open up the gap at the top and allow the PB to penetrate deeper.

Also grabbing the top of the (flattened) post with Vice-Grips and hammering on them can sometimes work as well.

Combinations of the above are usually what happens for me...

Good luck!
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red021200
post Jan 9 2012, 10:42 PM
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You should be able to rent the bearing puller from Auto Zone. I would try to see if they have a "blind bearing puller". I know they I have the pilot bearing puller , watch you fingers with the slid hammer. And good luck

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Mr. Smith
post Jan 10 2012, 04:48 AM
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Thank you !

I'll find out how tough she is when she gets here.

I'm leaning towards the cut and roll method as that is what I read about before.
I'll try thr bearing slide deal 1st before I cut the seat post internally.

Heat as a last resort as it's my intention to leave the og finish on the bike undisturbed.

Rob
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Master Jim
post Jan 10 2012, 06:19 AM
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QUOTE (Mr. Smith @ Jan 10 2012, 10:48 AM) *
I'm leaning towards the cut and roll method as that is what I read about before.
I'll try thr bearing slide deal 1st before I cut the seat post internally.

Heat as a last resort as it's my intention to leave the og finish on the bike undisturbed.

Rob


You can sometimes score (cut almost all the way through) with a hack saw blade inside the seat post, but that is like escape from Alcatraz...

If you want to avoid heat, warm the frame (keep it in the house) and use the cold blast inside the seat tube to shrink it a bit. You may need to do that and then add the PB, let is soak, and then go back in a week with another cold blast.

Basically, it is case-by-case and what works once may not work the next time.
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Mr. Smith
post Jan 10 2012, 02:25 PM
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This is how I intend to start :

1) Figure out how deep or long inside the mast the post goes

Then that will determind which method I'll use
If it's in real short or shallow I'll debate the hack saw and cut thru it spiral it ... and pull it out.
If it's in deep ... then it gets a little harder.

I'll spend hours here on this site finding those articles I spoke of because both of those guys especially Ted Carl is the best on restoring or fixing basket case projects.

This will come out and I have till I die to get it out with damaging the og finish.
I'll take some pics of the process and post. Might not get to it for a tad.
Thanks again as I'll get some of that cooling refridgerant.

I have one step better than PB Blaster and that's Free All an industrial spray coming from my buddies shop at $10 a can but it's awesome ... gotta be an acid.

Rob
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Master Jim
post Jan 10 2012, 02:45 PM
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QUOTE (Mr. Smith @ Jan 10 2012, 08:25 PM) *
I have one step better than PB Blaster and that's Free All an industrial spray coming from my buddies shop at $10 a can but it's awesome ... gotta be an acid.

Rob


I'm all ears! I was skeptical of the PB when a friend told me of it, but I have removed some pretty stubborn stuff with that (from old rusty cars and trucks).

And, $10.00 is nothing in the grand scheme. My time is about $60.00/hr so if I can save 10 minutes it's paid for... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

This post has been edited by Master Jim: Jan 10 2012, 02:46 PM
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Mr. Smith
post Jan 13 2012, 09:55 AM
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Wow !

Can I get an application ?

The most I've billed out for is $55/hr as a licensed commercial electrician.
But I can't charge little ole ladies that ! $20 - $25/hr.

When I'm billing someone T & M I worry about the time based on my estiamte I gave them.
But when it's for my favorite hobby the only concern is the quality of the job.
I believe I had 12 man hours in wet sanding & polishing out by hand my looptail PK.

Only to sell it !

Thanks...

Rob
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Master Jim
post Jan 13 2012, 10:09 AM
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I repair Land-Rovers as a side business. That rate is about 1/2 what the dealers charge... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)

I am also one of very few people in the US who can properly repair the Land-Rover 300Tdi turbo diesel, since it was never officially imported. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

Plus, I have no time, so if I spend it doing what I don't want to do, it will cost you! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
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Mr. Smith
post Jan 14 2012, 06:25 AM
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That's way cool.
My buddy Greg is big on Land Rovers and we were actually discussing the model you spoke of.
Is that the one where a decent quantity was amde for a certain gov't and then they didn't buy them anyway ?

Technically Greg was telling me they are not allowed to be imported in US but there is a way to get around it. That's pretty ironic that we were just having this conversation.

You got some good skills there !

Rob
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