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Oxalic Acid. Removing rust from Chrome the very best way!
raul
post Apr 4 2006, 11:10 AM
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Looks like a trip to Holmes Depot is in order. Hey ettsn, how did you go about using the pre-mixed stuff? Spray it on and just let it sit overnight?
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ettsn
post Apr 4 2006, 02:11 PM
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Yep, just sprayed it on. Bottle says to let it sit for 30 seconds! I let it sit for more like 30 minutes, and it ate the rust up something fierce. I picked up a brass brush today to get down into the welds. Full report coming!

-Paul
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Ted Carl
post Apr 5 2006, 12:43 AM
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I have gotten quite a few emails from people braving the technique, that is very cool! I hope to see some good results pix here in the future!

To help answer some more questions....


I am guessing an ounce or 2 per gallon will do it. I have never been that scientific with it, if it isn't working, I add more....

The stronger you mix it, the faster it works. Even in lower concentrations it will work over time. I mixed a pretty "Hot" batch in a tupper-ware container for my headset, and it didn't hurt the plating at all, even in stronger concentrations.

My best advice would be to reduce the amount of water as best as possible. Maybe lay a frame flat in the bath tub? Or line a small frame box with a plastic bag?

Minimizing the water makes it cheaper. Less acid needed.

When it is right, you should see some light bubbling going on, and off-white powdery stuff gathering on the frame, especially on the rust within about 6 hours. And the orange rust turns pastel yellow. That is the stuff that will brush right off with a tooth brush! Below is the actual headset shown earlier (in fairness, lol),

Ted

(IMG:http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/388/cups2bx.jpg)
...and the dish mentioned above showing what came off of the hardware I put in there. This is the yellowy powder that collected in the bottom that I was speaking of.
(IMG:http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/686/dish8xn.jpg)
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Ted Carl
post Apr 5 2006, 01:05 AM
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Rumblerdave,

I am not ignoring you....Maybe I will do something on polishing paint in another thread?

Right now I am still goofing off with those Graphite Tuff wheel "hub caps" (making 5 more sets, lol), and I have a few other truly pressing matters going as well. All in time...
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mongoose_rider
post Apr 5 2006, 02:06 AM
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hi mate

i bought my self a 500 gram tube of crysltals and i was wondering how much to put in a 40 ltr bucket. i put the whole lot in but i am unsure if that was enough crysltals for 40 ltrs.
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Ted Carl
post Apr 5 2006, 11:56 AM
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quote:
I am guessing an ounce or 2 per gallon will do it. I have never been that scientific with it, if it isn't working, I add more....

quote:
i bought my self a 500 gram tube of crysltals and i was wondering how much to put in a 40 ltr bucket.
You are kidding right? lol

I haven't done the math in English, leave alone convert it to Metric!


I did, however, just measure off 2 and 3 gallons, and dump it in the sink I used to do the bars and forx in the pix. There was about 2 1/2 gallons in my sink, just enought to cover the parts. I could not have had more than 4 ounces left in the jar I dumped in.

My best advice is to find a container that barely fits the parts, and barely cover them with water, and THEN add the crystals. Forks and handlebars can lay flat in a sink, and only a couple of inches of water is required. DONT fill the sink, and then drop the parts in....Too much water.

However, I have been informed that the new can of "wood Bleach" says to use 12 ounces per gallon. That is for bleaching wood. I guarantee that is at least 6 times stronger than you need for what we are doing with it.

I am not a chemist by any stretch. However.

CO is Carbon Monoxide. O3 is Ozone. If you put Ozone and Carbon Monoxide in the same room together, they will get together and relax, and "Socialize". The 03 will gladly give up one of it's Os and the O3 becomes O2 or Oxygen, and the CO will take the O and become Carbon Dioxide CO2. Everybody is happy, and both the Ozone, and the Carbon Monoxide are no more. Used up. Gone. Global warming. Ozone thinning. Are you with me so far?

Hydrogen Peroxide is water with "Extra" Os, Oxides. The Oxides react with anything it can, and it kills the oxygen thirsty bugs by ODing them. Swish it in your mouth, and it foams up and kills germs.

Bleach....same deal.

Oxalic Acid, has something that resembles Oxygen in the name. It is placarded as an Oxydizer (makes fires worse). Somehow, the acidic nature of it disolves the rust, and the Oxidizing action reacts with the softened Iron (Iron likes reacting with Oxygen and making rust), however, it must like the Oxalic Acid, and it react with it quickly, and makes it into a powder that can be brushed off, and sinks to the bottom of the water.

Point(s) being, it gets used up in the process of attracting and removing the rust. So, if it is working very slow, it needs more crystals. If it is working great, and then stops working, then it is getting used up, and needs more crystals.

Therefore, the mixture needs to be strong enough to create an acid strong enough to get the rust loose, and enough stuff to react with it.

Whew....Did I make any sense at all?

As for the "One can per gallon" that is says on the bottle. When bleaching wood, I would think that there is SO MUCH stuff in the wood for it to react with, that it will use itself up very quickly, hence the potent mixture. With a pair of Chrome-moly handlebars in an inert bucket. The only thing for it to react with, is the rust on the bars, the grease you forgot to wipe off, and whatever bacteria were in the water. So if you mix it so strong that it is still good when you are done, you wasted it, or need to find more rusty parts. OR, you want it done fast.

[ April 05, 2006, 02:01 PM: Message edited by: Ted Carl ]
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Spanish Fly
post Apr 6 2006, 12:07 AM
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just don't freak out when your fingers come up missing
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OldSchoolBikesTx
post Apr 6 2006, 12:29 AM
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Sounds like a good product. I still prefer a $1.50 can of "Bar Keepers Friend" and 00 Steel wool. Works like a charm for me.
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z-man99
post Apr 6 2006, 04:38 PM
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Has anyone tried this concoction with black oxide parts, like Ashtabula cranks and stems? Will it ruin the black finish?
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la.bmx
post Apr 7 2006, 03:45 AM
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Ted, Thanks for the work-words-and pics you did for this post....I will be saving this info for future projects!
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