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Freewheel Brand/size Question
bighead
post Dec 28 2007, 04:46 AM
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White Industries. 50/18 on the 20" and 45/20 on the cruiser. As far as the 14t stripping...that sounds like a problem with the hub not having enough shoulder on it for the freewheel to rest against.
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Gino
post Dec 28 2007, 09:33 AM
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My son is now 6. He went through 2 14 tootch acs freewheels last year. I finally had to put a larger on since I didn't trust them anymore.
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RyanPartridge
post Dec 28 2007, 12:01 PM
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Interesting. Thanks for all the info guys!
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cheez
post Dec 28 2007, 02:11 PM
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If quiet is that important, go with RL cassett, almost silent. Me, I could care less about the sound. My RL is suuuper quiet, and odysee is noisey. I like them both. I ditched free wheels because of all flip flop, 15 and under less durable, ACS, shimano, white drama. I wanna change gearing, it's as easy as replacing the cog.

Dito on the no grease'a the freewheel. Soak it in carb cleaner, then spray it out with carb spray, dry, and fill it up with a good chain lube until it runs out, spin it a few times and viola! If you know someone with an ultrasonic solvent tank, that works even better to get it clean.

This post has been edited by cheez: Dec 28 2007, 02:18 PM
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BS
post Dec 28 2007, 04:55 PM
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Ryan,

I ran an ACS Claw 14t on a Sun Super Stock flip flop hub for quite awhile and had no problems with the durability of the freewheel. They aren't the quietest in the world but it worked well for me...

until...

I stripped out the small side of my hub like was mentioned above. I dunno, I may have cross-threaded it but this was in a racing application with a lot of torque being applied during gate starts.

I would run it again though.

I've run one of those Odyssey 13t freewheels as well but I don't think they are quite as durable. I've had to replace them fairly frequently. This was in a dirt jumping/skatepark application.

I'm too cheap to run cassettes. So far.
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RyanPartridge
post Dec 28 2007, 05:24 PM
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QUOTE (BS @ Dec 28 2007, 02:55 PM) *
I'm too cheap to run cassettes. So far.


Me too. All my bikes but one are midschool bikes, so naturally they have freewheels.

I started this thread because I want to try out something different with my newschool/daily bike, but I'm running a regular flipflop hub on wheel that I bought used. Those Profile cassette hubs sure look rad but I don't really need to $pend that much on a new rear wheel right now. I just wanted to find out what my best options are for running a 39/14 on the crappy wheel I have now.
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LACK
post Dec 28 2007, 06:09 PM
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The anti grease guys! Yes I imagine if you packed the driver with wallmart axle grease it would clog up hahaha... Id never run a bearing or shim dry..never-ever-ever...

"Greases are typically used in areas where a continuous supply of oil cannot be retained, such as open bearings or gears. Factors to be considered when selecting greases are the type of grease, which in turn depends on operating temperatures, water resistance, oxidation stability etc. The second factor, no less important, are the grease's characteristics, including viscosity and consistancy."

Grease vs oils..
That is a debte that has been around since bearings..anyways every tech paper Ive read for bikes in drivers says to run grease..of course its always their own special brand grease..which is close to..PolyLube 1000 Lubricant (Tube)

and the debate

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/articl...oup=Lubrication
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Elvis
post Dec 28 2007, 08:49 PM
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ACS recommends its freewheels only be serviced with a non-synthetic oil, and that only. 3-in-1 oil was the specific recommendation. It was explained to me (in a phone call made in response to a thread posted some time ago) that synthetics, like Tri-Flow, work too well and can lead to skipping.

I've never gotten good service from anything <16t on the freewheel, although some have it that a Dicta, of all things, is actually a pretty good 14t.
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psbmxer
post Dec 29 2007, 09:50 AM
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I've sold a lot of ditca freewheels that have worked very good. The biggest issue with the ditca is that they are hard to get off the hub. The ACS has the better option for removal but by having room for the removal there are no bearings on the front side and only bearings on the back side. The ACS also has 4 pawls that make it louder. Should be more reliable with 4. The ditca only has 2 pawls but it has bearings on both back and front. I've sold a lot of both and both are good freewheels.
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TrickStarRick
post Dec 29 2007, 11:36 AM
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QUOTE (psbmxer @ Dec 29 2007, 10:50 AM) *
I've sold a lot of ditca freewheels that have worked very good. The biggest issue with the ditca is that they are hard to get off the hub. The ACS has the better option for removal but by having room for the removal there are no bearings on the front side and only bearings on the back side. The ACS also has 4 pawls that make it louder. Should be more reliable with 4. The ditca only has 2 pawls but it has bearings on both back and front. I've sold a lot of both and both are good freewheels.

I totally agree! Myson ran his stock proline JR entire season with out a FW prob using a dicta 14. Just cleaned out with brake cleaner and soaked in some 10w-30 a few times.But then I decided to upgrade his hubs and had to remove the Dicta. Hammer and chisel time!! (IMG:http://oldschoolbmx.com/community/style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif) Bought a 14t ACS claws and mounted to new wheel set and assembled. Sounds like we put old baseball cards in his spokes (IMG:http://oldschoolbmx.com/community/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) But all in all I think the ACS is the Beefier FW for the $$$
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